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Full text of "Traveling To Lower Joseph Creek A Pictorial History"

TRAVELING TO LOWER JOSEPH CREEK: 
A PICTORIAL HISTORY 



ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 

The author is indebted to many people for their valuable perspectives and comments, particularly 
Anatha Bly Graham, Jack and Blanche Tippett, Biden and Betty Tippett, and Richard Crowe. These 
people showed great patience. 

Thanks to various individuals and couples who supplied pictures, articles, and the Rogersburg 
Celebration Guest List. Jack and Blanche Tippett, Pictures 3.13, 4.5, 4.6, 4.8, 4.11, and 4.12; Joe Rivers, 
Pictures 3.14, 4.9, 4.13, 4.14, 5.3, 5.6, and 6.9; Richard Crowe (Richard's father took these pictures at 
Rogersburg in 1933), Pictures 3.5, 3.6, and 3.9; Anatha Bly Graham, Picture 5.18; Minnie Haberman, 
Picture 5.5; Margaret Day Sellers and Sylvia Day Evans, Picture 4.3 and the Rogersburg Celebration 
Guest List; and Biden and Betty Tippett, an article from the Lewiston Morning Tribune entitled "Mrs. 
Sapp's Retirement Ends 39 Years of Service/' pp. 11-15. 

Thanks to Judy Edgmand for her computer and other skills which made writing and reproducing this 
manuscript much easier that it would otherwise have been. 

Special thanks go to the Lewiston Tribune and the Wallowa County Chieftain for permission to reprint 
various articles. The Tribune articles are "Mrs. Sapp's Retirement Ends 39 Years of Service," pp. 11-15, 
"Rogersburg to Celebrate New Highway Today/' p. 33, "600 Celebrate at Rogersburg/' p. 33, and 
"Grande Ronde Ice Jam Grinds, Roars, Stops/' p. 56. The Chieftain articles are "Canyon Picnic Draws 
Crowd," pp. 36-38, three "70 Years Ago" clippings, p. 103, and "From Logs to Lumber," pp. 105-107. 

The author may have inadvertently omitted various contributors or contributions. I apologize in 
advance. 

Mike Edgmand 



Chapter Number 
1 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 

Chapter Title Page Number 

Introduction 1 

Picture 3 

Table 1 Miles From Asotin to Various Locations 4 

Map 1 Asotin County, WA: Asotin to the Spangler Place 6 
Map 2 Asotin County: The Spangler Place to the Oregon State Line 7 

Map 3 Extreme Northeast Corner of Oregon's Wallowa County 8 

Traveling the Snake River 9 

Transportation on the Snake River: 1910-1938 9 

Mrs. Sapp and Boat Service on the Snake River 10 

Boat Service on the Snake River: Advantages and Disadvantages 16 

Pictures 18 

Rogersburg 30 

A Brief Sketch 30 

Rogersburg: The Celebration 32 

Pictures 39 

Ferries, Basket, and the Grande Ronde River Bridge 53 

Ferries 53 

The First Grande Ronde River Bridge 55 
The Basket 55 

Subsequent Bridges 55 

Other Problems 57 

Pictures 58 



Rogersburg to the Oregon State Line 76 

Pictures 78 

The Washington State Line to Enterprise 101 

The Wagon Road Up Road Gulch 101 

Fixing the Road to Accommodate Automobiles 101 

The New Road to Lower Joseph Creek 104 

The Rest of the Road to Enterprise and Joseph 108 

Pictures 110 



CHAPTER 1 
INTRODUCTION 

Bordered on the east by the Snake River ? the southeastern portion of Asotin County is 
mountainous with narrow valleys. Joseph Creek and the Grande Ronde River rim 
through two of the valleys. 

Although members of the Nez Perce Tribe wintered on lower Joseph Creek and the 
Grande Ronde River for many years, very few white settlers lived there prior to 1 889. 
One reason was the inaccessibility of the area. It could be reached only on foot or on 
horseback. 

The Bradley and Green families were the first two white families to settle on lower 
Joseph Creek, moving there in 1 889. They traveled by horseback from Anatone to the 
Grande Ronde River, forded it and then rode south a short distance to Joseph Creek. 

The Bradleys lived on Joseph Creek for about ten years. They then moved to Anatone 
so that their children could attend school there. The family left Joseph Creek the same 
way they came: on horseback. 

The Bly family was the third family to move to lower Joseph Creek. The family 
moved there in 1 891 . They traveled by wagon from their homestead near Whiskey Creek 
which is between Enterprise and Lostine in Oregon's Wallowa County to their new 
homestead on lower Joseph Creek just north of the mouth of Cottonwood Creek. At the 
time Joseph and Alma Bly had seven children. They had four more children while living 
on Joseph Creek. 

On their trip north, there would have been few roads and certainly none from Cold 
Springs Ridge down to the Horse and Cottonwood Creeks. Because members of the Nez 
Perce Tribe traveled from the Wallowa Valley to lower Joseph Creek and the Grande 
Ronde River each fall and back in the spring, the Bly family may have followed their 
trails* According to the Homer Papers (p. 892), Joseph Bly and his family traveled down 
Trail Creek. 

As time passed, more people moved up the Snake River and then up the Grande 
Ronde River and Joseph Creek. As automobiles became more popular, the road from 
Asotin up the Snake River was extended to Captain John. At that point, there was a high, 

1 



steep cliff falling sharply to the river. This cliff extended for a mile, making it a major 
obstacle to extending the road farther up the Snake River. 

Fortunately, boat traffic on the Snake River picked up and it soon became possible to 
board a boat in Lewiston and travel to Rogersburg which is at the mouth of the Grande 
Ronde River. Eventually, the federal government arranged for a boat to carry mail up the 
Snake River with a stop at Rogersburg. 






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Picture LI 

The Cliff Across From Captain John: 201 1 

The cliff shown here extends up the Snake River for a mile, making it difficult to extend 
the road to the mouth of the Grande Ronde. When the road was built, it was narrow and 
had no guardrails despite the almost straight drop to the river. Because the road was 
narrow, there was only one spot where two cars could pass. Consequently, both driver 
and passengers would look far down the road to see if a car was coming in their direction. 
If they saw a car, the driver would park at the spot where the cars could pass. No one 
wanted to back, up the narrow road with no guardrail. Today, the road, now paved, is 
wide enough that cars can pass anywhere. In addition, there is a stout guardrail. 



TABLE 1 

MILES FROM ASOTIN TO VARIOUS LOCATIONS 

Asotin Courthouse (0.0) 
Ten Mile Creek (4.7) 
Ackermaii Bar (6.9) 
Couse Creek (11.9) 

Buffalo Eddy (14.7) 

Captain John (16.6) 

Spangler Ranch House (19.7) 

Fisher Gulch (19.8) 

Mouth of Grande Ronde River and Original Ferry Site (22.8) 

Road to Joe Rivers' Place (23.8) 

Trail to Anatone (24.5) 

Last Ferry and Basket Site (25.0) 

Grande Ronde River Bridge (25.4) 

Zindel Place and Hill (25.8) 

Mouth, of Joseph Creek (26.6) 

Haberman Ranch House (27.2) 

Chief Joseph's Cave (27.6) 

Bradley Gulch (27.7) 

Joseph Creek School (28.4) 

Road to Tippett Ranch House (28.5) 

Heimark Ranch (30.1) 

Bly and Edgmand Ranch House (30.6) 

Mouth of Cottonwood Creek (30.8) 

Washington-Oregon State Line (31.6) 

Stuart and Esther Day's Ranch House (32. 1) 

Mouth of Horse Creek (32.2) 

Mouth of Trail Creek (32.6) 

Mouth of Cougar Gulch (33.6) 



Horse Creek Ranch House (34.0) 

Mouth of Canyon Leading to the Cliff Applington Place (34.4) 

Mouth of Alkali Canyon (34.5) 

Mouth of Road Gulch (35.9) 

New National Forest Boundary (36.3) 

Trail to Cache Creek (37.1) 

Road to Cache Creek (38.3) 

Old National Forest Boundary (39.0) 

Road to Jim Creek (41.8) 

Hack Shed Site (42.9) 

Cutout Grounds (44.5) 

Road to Old Cold Springs (45.7) 

Cold Springs Corrals (45.8) 

Road to Cold Springs Cow Camp (45.9) 

Frog Pond (46.1) 

Road to Buckhorn, the Bultes, and Enterprise (51.5) 

Road to Buckhorn Lookout and Cherry Creek (58.9) 

Thomason Meadows (64.3) 

Jack and Stuke Tippett's Place at the Buttes (80.3) 

Enterprise (99.3) 



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CHAPTER 2 
TRAVELING THE SNAKE RIVER 

When the Bradley and Green families moved to lower Joseph Creek in 1 889, they 
traveled by horseback. The only alternative was walking. Because of the ruggedness of 
the terrain and distance, it was not a viable option. Over time, however, boat traffic on 
the Snake River increased. Consequently, people living on lower Joseph Creek and the 
Grande Ronde River could travel to Rogersburg, board a boat, and travel down the Snake 
River to Lewiston. Later, they could board a boat and travel up the Snake to Rogersburg. 

Transportation on the Snake River: 1910-1938 
Prior to 1910, various boats — including steamboats— traveled the Snake River, mostly 
moving freight. In February 1910, Ed McFarlane and. Richard Glover, Ed's uncle and 
partner in. their hardware store, launched the Flyer in Asotin. The boat was 36 feet long, 
had a steel hull, and was powered by a two-cycle, three-cylinder Fario (25 horsepower) 
gas engine. Later, the partners replaced the Fario engine with a Sterling engine (60 
horsepower). 

The Flyer made its first trip on February 7, 1910. It carried about 1,500 pounds of 
machinery to Rogersburg. After a few trips, business picked up and McFarlane offered 
the first regular transportation service on the local portion of the Snake River. 

Given the success of the Flyer, McFarlane and Glover built the Prospector, launching 
it in the spring of 1912. The boat was 65 feet long, was powered by twin 100 horsepower 
Scripps engines, and had double the carrying capacity of the Flyer. 

Just after World War I, McFarlane and A. M. Peterson became partners and built the 
Clipper which entered service on the Snake River in 1920. 

William Pressly "Press" Brewrink, a contemporary of McFarlane 5 s, ran boats on the 
Snake River. His first boat was the Swastika which was very slow. In 191 5, he bought a 
boat called the Billy Bryan, named after William Jennings Bryan. 

According to official. U.S. postal records, Brewrink was awarded the first Snake River 
route mail contract in 1919. (Boats on the Snake delivered mail upstream prior to the 



official awarding of mail contracts.) At that time, Brewrink ran the Let's Go and the 
Clipper which he had purchased from McFarlane and Peterson. 

In 1921, the federal government awarded the mail contract to McFarlane. In 1924 s the 
contract went to Johnny Ames and Archie Knowland, but they subcontracted the mail run 
to Brewrink. 

In 1926, McFarlane hired Brewrink who soon became a partner. Although McFarlane 
retired in 1935, the company, the Snake River Transportation Company, held the mail 
contract from 1926 to 1938. 

From 1928 to 1935, McFarlane and Brewrink operated the Flyer, Prospector, Clipper, 
and the Idaho. The Idaho, built in 1922 5 was 58 feet long and had a carrying capacity of 
eight tons, A dependable boat, the Idaho provided at least occasional service until 1953. 

In July 1938, Kyle McGrady obtained the mail contract. Just before the contact 
began, his boat, the Dawn, hit some rocks and sank. When McGrady began to deliver the 
mail, he improvised with regard to boats. 

In 1939, McGrady started operating the Florence, named after Ms wife, Built in 
Clarkston in 1939, it had dual 100 horsepower engines with a 10 ton cargo capacity. It 
was a later version of this boat that was stuck in the ice at Buffalo Eddy for 33 days 
during the winter of 1 948-49. After that mishap and the drowning of one of his sons, 
McGrady sold a half interest in his business to Tidewater Barge Line in 1950. Soon after 
that, Tidewater lost the mail contract and McGrady turned to fanning. 

With the extension of the road to the mouth of the Grande Ronde River in 1938 and 
the construction of a ferry at Rogersburg, people living on lower Joseph Creek and the 
Grande Ronde River were able to drive to Lewiston. 

Because they had few alternatives, regular boat service on the Snake River continued 
to be very important to those living on or near the Snake River above Rogersburg. 

Mrs. Sapp and Boat Service on the Snake River 
Through her grocery store in Lewiston, Mrs. Ruth Sapp provided many valuable services 
to those ranchers and prospectors who lived on or near the Snake River. The following 
article, appealing in the Lewiston Morning Tribune on January 15, 1956, describes these 
services. 



10 



/IRS. SAPP'S RETIREMENT ENDS 39 YEARS OF SERVICE 

Bv BONNIE C* BUTLER 
'Tribune Staff Writer 

Srteb River ranchers and qorfe a law old customers right b Lewis- 
ion *are goina to have to give W ^eif favorite grocery store, 

They 11 have to look elsewhere loo, for many services fn* modem 
ma^feeti do not eeeiafid* 

s*t»n's G'-ncerv at 216 Main St., Is things," she said, ^Lots o! times 
*oing*to close, * we 'sent f sheep hooks/ fe* long 

^'Mr* Ruth Sann< who has been shepherds staff used by neraers. * 
hPhind the counter through 39 years But she didn't mention how long 
Soca the store was established a some customers had to he earned , 
few doors west of its present iocs- on the books— not so_ much for lack 
tton isn't reordering stock. of finances as lack of having aokars • 

v fhe~store will stay open until the or a hank handy when they were 
shelves are cleared, maybe a the busiest 

month. Then Mrs, Sapp will retire. Mrs. Sappts store^was useci as a 
Kb** will continue to make her waiting room often by members of 
home ^ at 310 2nd Ave. _ a family who went their separate 

" ^Hooters orders/* she said, "or ways on shopping trips. 
1 wouldn't do it, I suppose/* if a rancher let a worker go alter 

N^w in her Slst year, the gener- finishing a season and had no cash 
oils/ warm-hearted S! Mizs S&pp'* is to pay him, the worker could get 
nrw fitting orders for grandchildren his pay — with a proper written 
of h*r first customers, order — from Mrs. Sapp. 

Some of ihese presem-day cus^ j? « >0 mZLXi had a pay ehe^ano 
toniers have told -her they thvotignt wasn't known by another merchant 
'sinrh- Grocery and the Post Of- at a store where he wnnred to cash 
£W-?%yera the only two places in J.t, Mrs. Saoo vouched for it; often 
tswlsiorVhen they were~ children endorsed such checks < ^ 

<nn r .-sf^«h^s? im the river. And where could veil noe a 

w "' % tv«» ^^s^'tfsvfi when 3-Ire< Sano oersco hi a super rnark&t today 
.„^a~ Pas'** 'hti-cH^n^ the late George who kncw^ hew to w&icth your 

mk% of gold dost and pay you 



"anchors* oroet 


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CO 


rnpletely 




re- 


the rtghi amount 




dollar; 


prdless of the 




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Sapp has weighed 




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from Ouy 4 Huff 


rd 


er 


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a sheep 




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Tied ih 


oatfle man on 
said. Her eyes^ 




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the 


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a part of the store 




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a hurt 


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a busy eniploymei 




office 



St OUt it IS ah*a«M^* 

He wanted 50 pounds of Eps 



«<«,«* a-»*«* *Wrc C«^n cjs*^ in i&lt me ssrt& 

< salts* 50 pouooe ot peiseo^u o«*#> ivu«. w&pkj »^^, ,v, ^^- * x wt"/l 

one tern oat and a reo rooster* Awlicia w«. *vn*& jv,^ ^ .vaw^u,., 

«»«-„ >^^f *harn mr rdro and sent Was Doubtful 

ther^^on%e"boat" ' " ~" vh "~ "I told her the Cherry Creek 

^Vltl^'itl^ ^Homerrw in the earlv Sheep Co., wanted a cook and that 

i^S^^^^indnde^eracIdmgs "to they would like to get a woman, 

?«<f s*e»B does," eases of canned When I tola hzv toe company was 

^^ * x r p^i-trir soao; weaner pigs owned by Basque peopte ana there 

tfhiui ^'T^n^oTv th» Saoos "to were only men 'there, she hesitated* 

?S^^ a customer who "'Oh. 1 clon ? t think I waoi to' 

^C^***^ a-\^-n -tho ^"ver to find work m a place like THAT 1 ,** she 

couiun ». fev . ^v.n ,-.. ^_^ _ s ^ fSBot ; x assured j ier x ^ 0llM 

j the iob rnvself If I needed one 



d always — staple 



3v the barrel. and toat she would oe treated 



No Surprise 
'A. rancher would order a weaner 



e laclv 



Wei! . ^ • she^ took the job. 

see her until she csme bae 

3M me It was the first p!a^ 



* vs^i^ v,- * ^^g ^ a ^ V 0|» ^'oriceo wnere sot 
i *i,i«^ oimrt have to onn^ in her owa 
^»ww^*. -*^4 Sf won el - alio water * - « and ttiev iiao 



i ^^t ana^j.^^^^Y^ sr ^.^ n¥ Anton 

>/s MrSv b<&pps J3B.& sxaitOt^u^ could 

;«•£»'& sct vices* If items ot na.ro-* ^ n „ v 

re or drv eoods were on ao or- * w ,**fj; 



Mrs, Sapp remember*, senta! 1 
h&* shipments $rst walk ilia- river ; 
cantsinsr Press gr^^t^'f^l^ 

was witK i^Ie^MfeffladSi and trte 

Florence assd sancS;~wmi Oliver xvie- 
Nahb* and the tf snaha. _ , 

The store's operations have neen 
wldelv oubllcized along with Mrs* 
Sapf/s personal Interest hi her cus* 
tpniers* . » « , ^ ♦ 

* li is one of the last or its kjtjo hi 
*pv of America's ."last rrontisrs - 
and will not lilcely be replaced, ^ 
Tho store was first opined by hrr* 
Sapp In January of BIT attlit pres* 
ent iocatlon of the W* II. Flnon'Oe*. 
Mr. Sape* a Georgian' who was* 
postmaster 'at Pecos, Texas* before' 
coming North, decided Lewlsta 
was a good place for a si caeb^aM 
carry' * "store when he visited fsere 
after first stopping at Bofser - 

The store never quite made Iti 
customers* "cash and carry** con- 
scious, The river trade developed 
rapidly when ranchers found the 
kauptTio be the kind of accommo- 
dating proprietors they were/ 

As the western end of ffi&tn 
Street became more crowded for 
parking space and madern trends 
of food marketing reduced the 
store's size In appearance* river 
ranchers and pensioners at tew- 
Iston have been the mainstay of 
its trade* Pensioners have r«* 
malned faithful, not only hesaose 
Mrs* Sapp has carried them ever 
the 20th of the month for their hi I! 
but because of her Interest and 
k'iastnesSff 

"Mrs/ B^pp Is a native Texasuj 
"turned Xdahonlaxi,** she said, ^ "if j 
Texas doesn't hear what I say, 5 " J 
She was? bom at Dallas, Texas »| 
Aug* 5, 1875, She was Ruth Dachas*- 1 
an.*" granddaughter of a cousin io\ 
-President James Buchanan. Herj 
grandfather was a Virginian, Archl-} 
bald Buchanan, who went to Dallas \ 
in the 1840s. * • 

Her father, Dudley Buchanan* 
died when she was an Infant so her 
mother. Mary Evelyn Witt Buchaiv. 
an, taught school, to provide for her- 
self and child* 



Mrs, Sapp's membership In tnej 
Daughters of the American Kevon*-j 
lion might have been taicen ^ota\ 
either sMe of the family* &<naj 
chose to take it through a source j 
on her mother's side to VBgt* \ 
Charles WM who fitted a eornpapsM 
of soldiers at his own expense xorj 
the Revolution* ^ \ 

**Mv Bi.oih.er was' a Texan apa| 
tnolSoud of it for words/" she said. ! 
She met Mr, Sapp at a etiuren so- { 
c^al at Feces, Th% were married! 
June ?, 1S98, after a .4-year engage- 1 
ib ent, „ , .- ' 

"He was a Republican/* soe saiu, 
*'&.n& yen know TexaM are Deirio- 
cratsr to the ground floor! Neverthe^ 
less- he staved as postmaster ufii.it 
President Wilson wis eleeted* 
"He had been postmaster se 
lonarsorne of ths children though* 
lie owned the office* But when 
President Wilson went in, a Negro 
janitor joked about 1L We oten 
laughed" how he said *ii look like 
Mtstah Sapp nigh oaie worked 
out hie tlrne liereV* ^ ^ 

Mrs, Sapp had taught srehoal^a- 
fore ^r m^arrlage, She- went Into 
the cost office as a money order 
clerk afterward and served 13 
years before they decided to come 

**l$n Sapp's death occurred here : 



Jan, 21, 191 



*&» arte 



c£i 



; Illness 



Ot 3^i 



Mrs* Sapp was xne .aiTriisa wiuo si . 
dramas of the yeas'* in 1S4& 



17. 



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! ,M k li s [ g IJ n A Y 5 — Thes* sfecb ei =-rapi* groceriss u bulk were en «vs«=ga weskiy 
sh-pnsnr v* river rancors «£. the Snake ire rt^ a P? s grocery.. ? .o nzv, .,-.«» -^ — - • 

■r. W-aound swis, egg* *>V *"> «- s = c »'«' sd 5 :3 ate :& '. a cans "' : '"f 5 CKs * i0, * , '^ " 0> '"" i! 
s^rarns rkiht s and— vrti£T gi$$ ^o ysu -scogn^ei 





N O' 

Now 



V IT'S S 
•'$ a package 



» And soon ihe package too, will be gone from ±^£±^l}!ltf^^ 



■■IP 1 "' ^HMHRHi 



1 s OSS o z& * - ^ * * v ' ~ ^' 




remembers busier times for trie r 












Because of Mrs. Sapp's extraordinary service, the boat system worked much better 
than it would have otherwise. 

Stalling in 1938, ranchers on Lower Joseph Creek and the Grande Ronde River drove 
to Lewiston rather than taking the boat. Even so, many of the people who lived there 
continued to shop for groceries at her store. My parents, for instance, shopped there for 
many years. 

Following a heart attack, Mrs. Sapp died on March 12, 1956, less than two months 
after closing her store 

Boat Service on the Snake River: Advantages and Disadvantages 
When regular boat service began in 1910, people living on and near the Snake River 
welcomed it. At the time, the alternative was to ride horseback to town. The boat, 
however, made it to Rogersburg only twice a week. Consequently, there were several 
days between boats, making it inconvenient for people who wanted to return to their 
homes the same day. Also, if people became sick or were injured, it was unlikely they 
could take the boat to town immediately. Here are two examples. 

In 1926, Anatha Bly had a swelling on her neck that was increasing in size. Her dad 
and others at the ranch thought she needed immediate medical attention. Consequently, 
she and her grandmother Alma Bly traveled to Rogersburg. (At the time, Anatha was 
four years old; Alma was 73.) Because the mailboat was not due, Al Lemme who lived 
at Rogersburg said that he would take them to Lewiston in his rowboat Even though ice 
was running in the river, they started for Lewiston. 

On the way, they may have found someone at Captain John or beyond to drive them to 
Lewiston. At any rate, they made it to the White Hospital in Lewiston. There, someone 
lanced the swelling and told them that it was not a serious health threat. 

Sometime in the late 1920s, Pete and Birdie Edgmand, Joe Bly, and Pete's niece, 
Neatha, were swimming in the Grande Ronde just below the mouth of Joseph Creek. 
(Guyneatha "Neatha" Edgmand was John Edgmand's oldest daughter.) As Neatha 
reached the west bank of the river, she was bitten on the head by a rattlesnake lying on a 
low r cliff. The folks took her to the Haberman place where first aid. was administered. 



16 



Because they could not wait for a boat, the party started for Anatone on horseback. Pete 
went on ahead to call for an ambulance. Joe, Birdie, and Neatha followed. 

It was a hot day. As the party proceeded up Fisher Gulch, they would stop to rest their 
horses. When they stopped, Joe gave Neatha moonshine to drink. 

Somewhere beyond the head of Fisher Gulch, the "party met the ambulance that took 
Neatha to the White Hospital in Lewiston. Joe told Doctor White that he gave Neatha 
moonshine as they traveled up the canyon. The doctor told Joe that was fine because it 
probably calmed Neatha 5 s nerves. Neatha survived the rattlesnake bite with no ill effects. 



17 




Picture 2.1 

The Steamboat Lewiston Docked Next to a Warehouse in Asotin 

Workers are loading grain on board the Lewiston, In the early 1900s, various steamboats 
carried cargos on the Snake River, They, however, were underpowered, relatively large, 
and clumsy. They gradually disappeared from the Snake. 



18 




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*** 



Picture 2.2 



The Prospector at its Moorage on the Lewiston Side of the Snake River 

Boats heading up the Snake River from Lewiston moored at or near this spot. The bridge 
between Clarkston and Lewiston is in the background. 

The mailboat from Lewiston ran up the Snake River twice a week. Once a week, the 
boat went to Rogersburg and then returned. This boat began its journey from Lewiston at 
about 6 a.m. and stopped at Graham's Landing (just north of Couse Creek), Captain John, 
and Billy Creek before reaching Rogersburg at about 12:30 p.m. The boat then returned 
to Lewiston. 

Once a week, the boat stopped at Rogersburg and then went on up the Snake. The 
mailboat made many stops: Cache Creek, Jim Creek, Dug Bar, and so on. It returned to 
Lewiston the next day. 



19 




Picture 2.3 

The Clipper on the Snake River 

Ed M cFarlane and A. M. Peterson built the Clipper which entered service on the Snake 
River in 1920. The Clipper was a dependable boat and plied the Snake River for many 
years. 

Because the winters were cold, the larger boats had canvas curtains that they could 
unroll. Also, they had wood stoves. 



20 




Picture 2.4 



Jim Chaffee's Boat at Rogersburg 



Given what some of the women are wearing, this picture was probably taken in the 
1920s. Jim Chaffee is standing on the extreme right. Nellie Chaffee, his wife, is standing 
on the extreme left. The tall woman with the white hat and youngster is probably 
Mildred Haberman. If it is, the youngster is probably one of Mildred's sons, Howard or 
Fred. 



21 




Picture 2.5 

Ed McFarlane's boat, the Skippy, at Rogersburg 

Boat captains who had the mail contract often used smaller boats for the run to 
Rogersburg and back because it was cheaper. Mary Hollaway Howerton is standing on 
the left and Betty Harsin Tippett is standing on the right. 



22 




Picture 2.6 



Unloading Cargo from the Rainier at Rogersburg 



Boats on the Snake River typically carried passengers, mail, and cargo. Later, tourism 
became important. Kyle McGrady and Richard "Dick" Rivers built lodges up the Snake 
River. 



„ ^i.^*** 




Picture 2.7 

Unloading Al and Dorothy Heimark's Car from the Clipper at Rogersburg 

Prior to the completion of the road to the mouth of the Grande Ronde River and 
construction of the ferry at Rogersburg, there was a road of sorts from Rogersburg to the 

mouth of Joseph Creek and beyond. 



24 







Picture 2.8 



Relaxing on the Snake River 



Pete Edgmand is sitting just to the right of the dog. Al Lemme is sitting just to the left. 
Ed McFarlane or Press Brewrink is sitting or lying just behind the man in the suit. 



25 




Picture 2.9 



The Clipper and the Wool Trade 



At the time this picture was taken, Jay Dobbin and Guy Huffman, as well as others, ran 
sheep on the Snake River. In the spring, the sheep were sheared. The wool was then 
placed in large sacks and shipped down the Snake River to Lewiston. Passengers often 
sat on the sacks during the journey. 



26 




Jill 



Picture 2.10 

The Florence Stuck in the Ice at Buffalo Eddy 

Kyle McGrady's Florence was stuck in the ice for 33 days during the winter of 1948-49. 
Because the road to Rogersburg was completed in 1938, those who lived on lower Joseph 
Creek and the Grande Ronde River no longer rode the boat. Consequently, they were not 

inconvenienced. Those who lived on the Snake River above Rogersburg, however, were 
inconvenienced. 

Before the ice jam broke up, people speculated as to what would happen to the boat 
when it was free from the ice. Some people predicted that the ice would crush or 
severely damage the boat. That did not happen. The boat merely floated free with no 
damage. 



27 



NOW- V~^.# 







flld 



Picture 2.11 

People Waiting at Captain John 

In 1930, Joseph Bly died on Christmas day. Services were held several days later. 
Following the service, Pete, Birdie, and others needed to return home. Rather than 
waiting for the boat, they were driven to Captain John, the end of the road at that time. 
Most of the people in the picture are waiting for someone to bring horses from the ranch 
so that they can ride home. Clockwise, we see Anatha Bly, Esther Bly Day, Al Heimark, 
Bill Bly, Larry Andrews, Pete Edgmand, Bob Day, Millie Bly Andrews, Birdie Bly 
Edgmand, and Dorothy Day Heimark. 



28 




Picture 2.12 

Picnic at the Head of Fisher Gulch 

The mailboat traveled up the Snake only twice a week. Consequently, people often had a 
relatively long wait before they could catch a boat. To see friends and relatives more 
often, Pete, Birdie, Joe, Anatha, and others sometimes rode horseback from the ranch to 
the head of Fisher Gulch. Friends and relatives who lived in town drove to the head of 

Fisher Gulch. The two parties met there and picnicked. For those living at the Bly and 
Edgmand ranch, it was a long ride, at least a 22 miles roundtrip. 

In the picture, Anatha Biy is the second youngster on the left. Lee and Glenara 
Andrews are standing to the right of the man sitting on the ground. Pete Edgmand is 
bending over with a ladle. Dorothy Day and her brother Bob Day are on the right. 



29 



CHAPTER 3 
ROGERSBURG 
A Brief Sketch 
Rogersburg, named for George A* Rogers who had substantial land and mining interests 
in the area, is located on the south side of the Grande Ronde River at its mouth. (Rogers' 
biography appears on the next page.) In 1900 5 virtually no one lived there. Gradually, 
more people settled in the area. When regular boat service began on the Snake River 
about 1910, boats stopped there twice a week. These boats provided both passenger and 
mail service. Also, they delivered and picked up cargo. 

In 1912, a post office was established at Rogersburg with Charles B. Broun as the 
first postmaster. Other postmasters followed: Edward Decker, Marion Jenks, Jim 
Chaffee, Rosalie Fields, William Crowe, Doris Sigler, Ellen Ebsen, and Roy McCoy. 
Mail sendee was discontinued for two short spells during 1912-1939. In 1938, the road 
was extended from Captain John to the mouth of the Grande Ronde and a ferry built to 
allow people to cross the Grande Ronde. With the construction, people could drive to 
Rogersburg and then up the Grande Ronde and beyond. In 1 939, the Rogersburg post 
office was closed. Mail was then delivered by car from Asotin to homes in. the area. 

Marion Jenks was postmaster from September 21, 1922 to September 20, 1929. 
While postmaster, he had a sideline, making moonshine. His still was up a gulch just 
below Heller Bar. According to his patrons, he made an excellent moonshine. People 
paid about $ 1 for a gallon of it. 

Someone informed the law about his sideline. Consequently, his operation was raided 
and his still destroyed. Jenks was sent to prison. Some people say that Ms punishment 
was more severe because he was a federal employee. When he was released from prison, 
he returned to the area and moonshining. 

In 191 1, a school was opened in Rogersburg. At first, students were taught in a tent. 
A schoolhouse was then built on a flat bench above the town site. Starting in 1 91 3, the 
school's teachers were: Grace Forbes, Marion Seaman, Julia Rogers, Jessie Wilson, Mae 
Bell, Ralph Fuller, Marion Thompson, Ruth Burkart, Dorothy Waters, and Mary 
Montague. In 1922, the Rogersburg School District was combined with the Bly- Joseph 
Creek District and the school at Rogersburg was closed. 



30 




ar, : 



George- Rogers^ Founder at Rogersburg 

(Adacasa Srora History af Senfeeast Wasfelsgios, IfSCi) 

Mr, (George A.) Rogers is the promoter of a new town oe a 
favorable site near the mines he is operating on the Snake River, a*; 
the mouth of the Grande Ronde River, 

He was born in Elgin County, 
Ontario 3 on March 31,1 864, 
After moving to Asotin 
County in the early 1 880s he 
look a pre-emption near 
Anatone and later s " 
homestead. In addition to 
this he operated a steam 
shingle mill for some dme . 
and then moved to the town 
of Asotin, holding the office 
ef deputy sheriff under 1L« 
Vincent, After this h§ took 
charge of the auditor's office 
fhr his brother, Scott 

In the fell of 1884 he opened an office for himself as notary public 
and general conveyancer. He took lings on government land and 
heard final proofs and did practically &3 the business in Ms line in 
the county/ In 1887 he was elected probate judge of Asotin 
County and feM the office until Washington. became a stale. He 
has always been a strong Republican and takes a lively interest in 
•polities, Mr. Rogers owns considerable real estate end some very 
promising mines at the mouth of the Gisnde Ronde River in Asotin 
gnd Wallowa Counties. 

Mr, Rogers has never seen fit to forsake the life of a bachelor for 
the uncertainties of nmtrimonial existence. He was raised infer the 

influence of the Methodist Church and is a man of integrity and 

sound princimes* 




31 



Rogersburg: The Celebration 
On May 14, 1938, a large crowd that included people from at least six states gathered at 
Rogersburg to celebrate the. completion of the road to the month of the Grande Ronde. 
Estimates of the number of persons in attendance varied. The Clarkston Herald reported 
that 1,000 people attended. The Lewiston Tribune and the Asotin County Sentinel 
reported that 600 attended. Both estimates far exceeded the initial expectation of 100. 

Because the ferry at Rogersburg was not yet in place, people parked their automobiles 
on the north side of the Grande Ronde. (The Sentinel estimated, that there were 250 
automobiles parked there.) Then, several motorboats were used to cany people across 
the Grande Ronde. 

During the day, there were horse, foot, and sack races. Riding Hootenanny, Anatha. 
Bly won the horse race, or one of them. Some people took boat trips up the Snake and 
Grande Ronde Rivers. The Zimmerly Brothers offered people the opportunity to take 
short airplane rides. They used an improvised landing strip near the Post Office. 

Dining the day, local ranchers barbecued a beef, Most of the visitors brought their 
lunches and supplemented them with barbecued beef and coffee. 

Various people spoke, including Ben Weathers and some local county officials and 
businessmen. 

Earlier, local ranchers had built an open-air dance pavilion. In the evening, local 
musicians played while people danced to their music. Some people danced all night. 

Years later, Bob Weatherly wrote "And from first hand experience I can tell you when 
the people on the Grande Ronde and on Joseph Creek celebrate, they celebrate." (Valley 
American , February 10, 1988, p. 7) 



32 



May 14, 1938 



LgwistoB TribaBjg 
Mav 15. 1938 



f3 ^ ^ >^\ «*<f fi ? ;fT 



x V~""> ^~-? ^ ^^ ^^ s * ^ v 



?^U/^V I 









| w ~: Tina We&tn&w, ^^:— : - 

I ^;^«« includas c, ws^-- 1 

i:, h , M ^ »«,* m MCliriilOix «^ ***~ i 

,iv.r n « r* motorboat pui^u ^„— -* ; 
IT y~ ;::-^ «tk* festlvifcss win uu- 1 

"tvc Worsts will b3 ?««^..^ 
■W mcuth o» the Grand Honoe i.£ j 

1 ^iT^m to the- town. , | 

k^'h^n Hooded for three v«. *■ | 
fl:::. r ; f * c r car trr-vs!. Ho*erPDUi|?j 
i* 10 mUM south oi uiai^von o» - ( 
1 ^1^1 111 at fo!io™rs ti"i -^° l " oan ^ w Wu ^ 
K SnrJie river, j 



num 






^ Li* *' ; ) ;^ \ ' ^ ^ II *1 T r t; I j ^\ j ! N >' ? i li I * i s 



I com *ois* Ion M >jli>5 .^oUa-Hc^e^^bur^ j 
I f.r;o soatte sk> b;? the ^Tr^ r^ic [ 



h&vb2&ix$& y &$s$ cad eoffco XuTrilsht^ 
SrJc^. Aniens .uk^sp^^cjt ^vrcjTto 












XARKSTON HERALD, Wmj 20 ; 1938 






SO ITU 



\J< & V* <w £&. \~ r ^ .& & -^ V* * * o 

celebrating: the 1 00 fcl 

? ilia sorn ins; ' of tiy: 

— Hjta setters to the GrEnde Sonck 





- * 


OOc- 


cjOScpil 


? 




Ro§ 




a 


HI 


ivex 


s&Ty * 



Ion of the 



; J r^r^- *< 



>3nnw roaci iron 



Clarkston 



lEo^arsburg* There — sre soma I&U it 
I If £ <3ars -iD^r!:o<i on the south bank of 
I tlie Grande Sonde about 8 o'clock 



arfc'ston -and more .a 



l^ere s.iti vlngr It being estimated that 
I some- 250 s&vs made ■ the trip, * • : 
I Hospitality . reigned snsrsnie' and 
[the Herald's reporter stated that It; 
i wss f 3ie first federation lie e^er 
<9tozidad ~liera eveiything ttos iroa* 
sTIiere ~wei*s free -.eats, free dancing. 
: free oost rides 'and refreshments. 






imissieiier v&oseoe i&. liroeno of 
3regOii» Bienibs? of the Asotin 
I ^Qxmr^ 9 Washington board of countF 
; : oormBlssioiiers ? f -dellyered ; the - -chief 
I address and spoke of the last frontier 
fbaiBg penetrated by the -i>ew deal 
JorfcgiBg* -good roads and highways 
: ; oo the psople of the last frontier in 
J&3 fastnesses ox -toe mountains of 



. v.-^c^SUSrii; 



-^i of As 



lives tin 



*cm Uonirc? 



the- so^ihw^si 









CoilTltf 



m Asotin 



l?:0£ds-the:y^ar r^ronnd Trltliout haying: j 
ft:: ^4>.-2S4jS3iias -around \na Siiterpriiss, | 
| LaCrrsadaj • OregOB^ anci Walls Walla,] 

J rr^ar ' le^sl co^Bty roads -sdll all h 



n:iiacse- into lotir-imne • 






cats 



ro'rn-islnter* 



hi 



W ""WI 



f.crf : - iCo'Id- Springs . and . down -.Joseph- 
J Creek to Sogershnrgr, The deisga-. 
\ tloii wes headed, bj Ben . WeEtl?ers, 
I who- ".sited f ss tpsstmaster of "the 
t h&sKjuet. '. •■" . ' 1" * . ■, . 



^ A 



[HE ASOHN HOTTNTY SEN'UNEL. May 20, 1931 






'-AjmyApt B ?^ bIx. hundred people 

?SaliP^fe " liills .about tlie Grande 



and 

tarday^ the 



tlie HOIS 

0>^ . #* 



4oS«e nrlbrate v/itri 
i^T^i^.nrqT 5 of t&srnnxy* 
iiSSektliv as fiogersburg played host 
^ U lSr"iiaigIibor3 and celebrated^ the 
4^eHoii -of tlie AsDiin-EogeTsmirg 
-]£oaa,- along me b^*-- ^>v.. -~a^~& 
■ Miliars at least a'iitmdred guasss, rtog"- 






w^» 



»i? 



net 



tO OB" 



able to w el- 



six times that many, 
jolly "doin's" started at one m 



afternoon, 

BlltlBY 



l^.KtBil 



111 to 



mtasr, Sunday, Ttiere 



iSaces of an 



3hes t>] 



^^,«-;/ iroBoriarit e»u.s«iis ^i ^ l - ■—■" 
4>Vo»nrfine country, and an all nigfct 
#.aee in the new pavilion. There were 
"iotoi- 'beat' excursions up tiie two rrv- 
sfs; and air rides on & Ziraraeriy 



While the guests brought picnic 
lunches with them. Rogersrburg sup- 
plied efxeiH generously with barbe- 
cued Beef and coffee. With hospitali- 
ty, like ik^i, the. narrow littte ro.ad, 
tax8d to the utmost Sunday, will liave 

gic?€^t^i iX&tiilO ^U ills? lUbdio* 

. Such, a good time was iiad at tire 
ceiehratioa May 14, that another' dan eg 

w|ll be held at Rogersbiirg, May 28. 

-People from near aii-d far promise to 
be there* Boats will be available for 
crossing the Grande Ronde river. 

jLnnch will fae served by tlie .ladles 
of the community. 



The following is an article about the 1938 Rogersburg Celebration that 

appeared in the Enterprise Record Chieftai n, May 19, 1938. 



Canyon Picnic Draws Crowd 

Rogersburg Centennial Is In Honor 

Of First Auto Roads 

In the last six months two roads have been built to Rogersburg, at the 
junction of the Snake and the Grande Ronde rivers, where none ever ran 
before. The event was celebrated in a picnic Saturday and it was called the 
centenary celebration, because the first white man., Ca.pt. Bonneville, passed 
that way a little more than a century ago. To be exact, it is 104 years since the 
captain and his little band viewed the Imnaha canyon and explored the wild 
course of Snake river, 

But the two new roads are the important facts today. Wallowa, county 
graded one down, to Cottonwood and Horse creeks from Cold Springs and the 
Snake river ridge last fall, making the distance 77 or 78 miles between 
Rogersburg and Enterprise. The other was built during the winter by Asotin 
eountw along the bank of Snake river south, to the month of Grande Ronde, 



■"•£» 



There were some 600 persons at the picnic Saturday and, most of them 
went by the Asotin county road and. were ferried across the Grande Ronde to 

Rogersburg by launches chartered for the day by the Joseph creek celebration 
committee. Others reached the picnic by driving down the long grade out of 
Wallowa, county, and some made it across country horseback. 

It was amazing where so many people came from and how they got there. 
But the hundred parked cars on the flat across the river from. Rogersburg and 
the score on the south side of the river accounted for most of the travelers. The 
picnic ground was a prettily shaded, flat immediately on the water's edge, with 
great rivers flowing past and the huge cliffs of the canyon rising on all sides, 
Everything was bright green, grass and foliage arid occasional small fields, and 
the temperature was perfect. 

AH Get Acquainted 

Many of the picnickers were not acquainted beforehand, but it was such 
a cheerful, cordial, friendly gathering of the best people in the west that they all 
felt they knew each other before -they had been together long. The committee 
had provided ample lunch tables in the grove, and shortly after noon a truck 
arrived from Lewiston, with a trailer in which was loaded a roasted steer 
provided by Joseph creek residents, along with bread, and cups and plates. 
Most of the family or neighborhood groups had brought their own dinners, but 
this did. not stop them from taking a few slices of the wonderful roast beef, and 
enjoying hot coffee. 



Following the percent of ail well ordered community picnics, the crowd 
was gathered at the dancing floor after dinner had been eaten and Jidge 
Tippett announced that Garnet D. Best would be master of ceremonies, and he 
introduced a dozen speakers, who were called without warning and were 
correspondingly informal and brief. First came Mrs. Mildred Haberman who 
gave the historical' background of the centenary in the neatest talk of the 
afternoon. 

Speakers from Several Comaties 

Arthur M, Pace responded for Wallowa county. R* !~L Prater, Grant Low 
and E. A, Holman, the three commissioners of Columbia county, Washington, 
were there and all did their tarn, as did Cecil Laugherty, county auditor. Cub 
Winnett, county engineer, also was there, 

Senator Roup of the district consisting of Asotin, Columbia and Garfield 
counties, spoke, as did Al Dick and Roscoe Greene, Asotin county 
commissioners and Sheriff Will Patterson of Garfield county* While Jidge 
Tippett was introduced, very properly, as the organizing genius of the picnic 
and the dynamo which furnished energy to put it on, he disclaimed any 
parti.cu.lar credit and wanted it to be known, that every resident of the canyon 
neighborhood had done his part, and even the beef was a joint offering. 

Races and sports followed and the evening was enlivened with dancing, 

Some Personal Mention 

Mr. and Mrs, John O* McFctridge aod Mr, and Mrs, Lawrence Pratt 
formed a party which drove down, and set rip a tent on the shore of the Grande 
Ronde river and remained over for the outing and. the day of fishing in canyon 
streams. They helped feed some of the hungry Wallowa county contingent, 
including the county agent, and the editor, who were not above patronizing all 
their friends, 

Arthur Pace and family drove to Lewiston and then drove to Rogersburg 

Saturday morning. They took five pounds of Swiss cheese and as much 
American cheese from Enterprise and a gallon of pickles from Lewiston, as 
their contribution to the common pot. 

Some of the travelers from Wallowa valley stopped, going or coming, at 
Jack TIppetf s summer camp at Thomason meadows, as is the custom of the 
country. Mr. and Mrs. Tippett spent the day at. the picnic, taking down a load 
of wood by mistake, and then hauling it. back as ballast, Everybody was too 
tired Saturday night even, to play pinochle. 



37 



Others Go To Mesie 

Wendell Burleigh and family were on hand from Crow creek and the two 
small girls did their best to enliven the horse races, 

Jake Borland and wife went from Paradise, which is not so far from. 
Rogersburg, but is on top of the hill. 

Bob Tippett, who is in high school at Enterprise, went home for the day 

and started back to town immediately after the dance, arriving in the middle of 

Sunday forenoon, 

Several parties drove to the canyon Saturday evening for the dance. 

END 



38 




Picture 3.1 



Rogersbum 



This is an early view of Rogersburg from the hill north of the Grande Ronde River. 






*h....i.± i 







Picture 3.2 



Waiting for the Boat 

On this day in June 1920, Joe Bly and Addie Case took the boat to Lewiston to be 
married. They then homesteaded up Bradley Gulch. Several years later, Addie died 
shortly after giving birth to Anatha. Joe never returned to the homestead. Pete went to 
the cabin and removed Joe and Addie' s possessions Joe sold the cabin to Jidge who 
moved it to the mouth of Bradley Gulch. He sold the land to Rudolf Haberman. 

In the picture, Pete Edgmand is the third person from the right. Mary Rogers, one of 
Joseph and Alma Ely's granddaughters, is the second person from the right. 







Picture 3.3 



Starting Home from Rogersburg 



Jim Chaffee, Nellie Chaffee, Esther Bly Day, and Joe Bly are starting home from 
Rogersburg after picking up mail and supplies. At the time, Jim and Nellie had a home at 
the mouth of Joseph Creek. Esther and her husband lived just south of Joseph Creek near 
the mouth of Cottonwood Creek. 



41 




Picture 3.4 

One of the Homes at Rogersburg 

Jim and Nellie Chaffee, Ida Burleigh, Pete Edgmand, Ellen and Paula Ebsen, Jessie arid 
Jidge Tippett, Betty Harsin Tippett, Birdie Edgmand, and Mary Hollaway Howerton are 
standing in front of the Crowe House. It is called the Crowe House because Dean Crowe 
and his son, Bill Crowe, owned it along with almost 4,800 acres of land along the Snake 
and Grande Ronde Rivers and thousands of sheep. 

Dean Crowe rarely visited Rogersburg, but Bill Crowe moved there in 1933 to 
manage the sheep operation. While staying in Rogersburg, he lived in the Crowe House 
and used it as the headquarters for the sheep operation. About 1937, Bill left Rogersburg 
to take over a newspaper in California. About that time, he started leasing the land. In 
1944 or 1945, Bill sold the land to Jidge Tippett. 



42 




Picture 3.5 

Barging Sheep Across the Snake River 1 

Dean and Bill Crowe's company, the Washington and Idaho Livestock and Land 
Company (WILLCO), had a high country grazing permit to ran their sheep in Idaho's 
Clearwater National Forest. Consequently, the sheep had to be barged across the Snake 
River twice a year. In the spring or early summer, they were barged across the Snake to 
the Idaho side of the river. In the fall, they were barged across the Snake to the 
Washington side. 

This picture, taken a short distance up the Snake River from Rogersburg in 1933, 
shows the barge just leaving the Washington bank with a load of sheep. 



43 




Picture 3,6 



Barging Sheep Across the Snake River 2 



The barge, loaded with sheep, is crossing the Snake River to the Idaho side of the river. 
Please note that the boat is pushing the barge. To barge thousands of sheep across the 
river was no easy task. 



44 






if 



liiiifi i •■•*! 
^ift 







S$ 



Bill 



^jUj 



Picture 3.7 

Two Buildings at Rogersburg 

The building on the right was a combination store and post office. The back of this 
building was made of cement or concrete and was built against the hill. Although this 
building has been gone for many years, the cement wall is still visible. 

The building on the left was a home to various families over the years, including Jim 
and Nellie Chaffee. The postmaster usually lived there. 



45 




Picture 3.8 

Joe Bly and Al Lemme at APs Cabin 

Joe Bly is on the left. Al Lemme, sometimes referred to as the mayor of Rogersburg, is 

on the right. At one time, Al had a homestead near the mouth of Road Gulch and a still 

up Cougar Gulch. Later, he lived in a cabin at Rogersburg and sold moonshine from it. 

One time, Pete and Birdie Edgmand were staying at the Horse Creek ranch house. 

Birdie walked upstairs and found a large quantity of sugar. She was upset because she 
thought Pete and Joe had started making moonshine. They assured her that they were 
only storing the sugar for Al Lemme. 



46 







Picture 3.9 



Bill Stanton, Al Lemme, and Bill Crowe at APs Cabin: 1933 

In 1933, Bill Crowe went directly from college to Rogersburg. He soon met two of the 
local citizens. 



47 




Figure 3.10 

Telephone Poles at Rogersburg 

Many years ago, Dobbin and Huffman built a telephone system of sorts up the Snake 
River to communicate with their workers. The telephone line started at Cherry Creek, 
then went on to Jim Creek and Cache Creek. From Cache Creek 5 it went to the Madden 
place which was across the river from Cache Creek. From there, it went to Rogersburg, 
Billy Creek, Captain John, and Oxil Hendrickson's place, and finally to Asotin. At 
Rogersburg, the telephone was in the Crowe House. 

Although the telephone system, similar to the one at Cold Springs, often failed to 
work, it proved very useful at times. For instance, Biden Tippett's wife Betty cut her arm 
badly at their ranch on Jim Creek. Using the telephone, Biden was able to get a plane to 
fly to their place and then fly Betty to Lewiston where she received medical treatment, 



48 




Picture 3.11 

A Gathering at Rogersburg 

Because of its connections to the outside world, people often gathered at Rogersburg to 
meet the mailboat or take it to Lewiston. 

This picture was taken at Rogersburg in 1938 or somewhat earlier. In the back row, 
the 1st person on the left is Larry Andrews, the 2nd is Al Lemme, the 4th is Al Heimark, 

the 5th is Jidge Tippett, the 7th is Stuart Day, the 10th is Pete Edgmand, the 14th is 
Dorothy Day Heimark, the 16th is Ellen Ebsen, and the 19th is Joe Ebsen. The youngster 
standing on the left between the rows is Bob Tippett. In the front row, the 1st person on 
the left is Millie Bly Andrews, the 2nd person is Birdie Edgmand, the 4th person is Jessie 
Tippett, and the 6th person is Alma Bly. 



49 




Picture 3.12 



The End of the Road 



In 1938, the road from Asotin finally reached the mouth of the Grande Ronde River. 
On May 14th, a large celebration took place at Rogersburg to mark the event. 



50 



lllllil 








Picture 3.13 



The Celebration at Rogersburg 



Part of the celebration's large crowd appears here. The warehouse at Rogersburg and Al 

Lemme's cabin appear in the background. 



51 




^^^^M^^^^^^s^i 



Picture 3.14 



Rogersburg in 201 1 



Joe Rivers took this picture from the top of Lime Point in June 201 1 . At the time, the 
Snake River was very high, almost covering the road in several places. Note that the 
Grande Ronde River is muddy. 

More people live at Rogersburg today than at any time in its history. 



52 



CHAPTER 4 
FERRIES, BASKET, AND THE GRANDE RONDE RIVER BRIDGE 

Ferries 
After the road from Captain John was extended to the mouth of the Grande Ronde, the 
next step was to construct a ferry to provide people with a way to cross the river. In July 
1938, the Asotin County Commissioners authorized Roy McCoy to build a ferry and put 
it into sendee. 

In August 1938, the ferry was completed. The County Commissioners approved an 
Initial fee schedule: sheep per head — one cent, cattle and horses per head — five cents, 
cars and pickups 5,000 pounds or less — 50 cents one way or roundtrip the same day — 75 
cents, pedestrians — 25 cents with 10 cents for each additional person, and horse and 
rider — 30 cents. 

The ferry, operated by McCoy, made its first trip on Sunday, August 28, 1938, 
During the ferry's first year of service, it hauled 2,000 cars across the river. While this 
number of cars seems high, It was only 5.5 cars per day. At that time, more ranchers 
lived in the area. Also, curiosity seekers and hunters added to the traffic. Finally, the 
mailman made two roundtrips per week. 

The location of the ferry at Rogersburg had an important drawback. Silt accumulated 
there. When the river was relatively high, the silt did not interfere with the ferry's 
operation. When the water was low in the late summer and fall, however, the ferry had 
difficulty operating. As a consequence, the ferry was moved several miles upstream to 
the Zindel Place 

The Zindel Place was named after Martin Zindel who homesteaded there in 1 895. 
While living there, Zindel built and operated a ferry. In 1903, a sudden rise in the river 
took out the ferry. It floated down the Grande Ronde and Snake Rivers until H. J. Earl 
recovered it at Buffalo Eddy. 

In 191 1, Zindel sold Ms place to C. B. Brown who moved the ferry to Rogersburg. In 
1915, Brown sold his place to Edward Decker who dismantled the ferry and sold the 
cable and iron. 



53 



ASOTIN COUNTY SENTINEL 
JULY 15,1938 



■SB *ST% *'W "1 ' "¥1 - ' 

1 I3I11I0 £ eH| 






. H* McCOY TO. CONSTRUCT -AND j 

. OPERATE FERRY— WILL OPEN | 
JOSEPH CREEK COUNTRY j 



The Asotin County Oommissionsrs J 
lifivn entered into a deal with J, K. [ 
okVov wix^rjj^y *«& is to toold u ferry j 
T.^otS *"«v* Grloc^ Horde ±l\v>sr> u*\ 
Begeroharsr, Vivas afford mg £hs Joseph I 
C-eelc Yaltey people r^ess to lhVo^| 
side. world;. ■;■♦■;. ;/'..•"■.•. ■.-,' .; :. -y-- ;. ■■• | 

l^rv In ^boot iw xrctroy aoer Y^lah j 
rbe coxamisbioiierB-wm- delioooi^ me | 
>-63 ^:io :os dairy scb^ciiTe^: :vip? ^ ] 
■fee ;i:^e, raid app<dni a oomnetexu 
I man to operate \L ; , . " Or:' -. . 

pfcmkfcs -at Rogersburg' \ 
Ri>&e;>bw were a nopalar plr.ee 
R*mda\\ The Bly and Eldgmaad family 
ana 2uVs>. Dr tt o*: / Hrimarh; and dnug x- 
-ler picnicked mere; with Mr. and Mrs. 
Ondlle Appletom and family of &oia« 
roiBery Bldge; Mr. and. Mrs v Merle 
Gnnotoo rod Caughter, and 3Xr„ ^oxd 
MtI "'Larry Andrews and lamily. ox 
ClarWtoii, ".Mrs. borenfe Sosngler 1 and 
"Rruy. Parhaioo Sleek sod Bcaig Tip* 
^;'r^'t - t« c k h<^ rarCiei in .: o 

Clay*.: " ~ ' . - yO ■•;.•:.■'" 

.' ' Ride ForCaftle o. ■' '■ 
T oe B^% n-jliin Tippeio ana Jidge 
^r^orr. and sons, Jack, Bob and f 
' ' ding at Cold Sn 

!bam;Tir. 



( Bong 



sons, Jack, Bob. and 
are riding at Cold Springs this 
yooi re rdy ronx 



-' '-'■-". .Rogers&wrci . Briefs - j 

Mr; rood. Mrs, Memn Seoggins and f 
VU„ Seeaains -tether drove to Rogers- ! 
bi^g Soio-day. Albirta Calweli re-^ 
naoisd with th*m. 81xo plans io stay * 
with j Irs. Soo^iro: ar Central jTeriT^ 
whole ATorvio Is liarvestiiig,-' 

Mr. and "to. J. H. Tlppetr drove to 
Hoxorprise Baturuay sTreoxBg* They ai> 
o-:nlDii ihs road- inert I« at Troy Sun^ | 
*K*jy. Whrii tlmy ?eturiK-d ; they brought 
„«.£ It- T^jn^ ,. Jko.o^ t«-«^ n\ 
wYx£> -ill visit a lew days at the ranch, 
JMge Tlppett rode at Fisher Bar 
1;ihx B^rolay and Sauirrooy. ^hik clown 
roe viY&i% lie Tisltecl Blanolie Applet 
ford of Montgroxoery Hldge. Jaek and 
^ob wera rMIn^ :ir Fi^hor agooo Sun- 

lOr^o A! Eioo;ax*> relumed ;o Spo- 
t,. .x. l^i Saa:rda~o Xrs. :d:on\oO: aoC 
Fr^rsy v;III j'emairi ou the creek for 
:-f\vi die Wore going to Spokane to -be 
with 'A!*.' . . ' _ ■ . ' 

:U'#. K..L, FfcLcv oi* Aou;ooc vtel> 
<>a\ al The Tippcot home Thi^^diiy and 
Friday; She returiied to; Asotin Friday 
ai'terno*jn with IBarl Kuxnme«, who had 
been, taspaeting- land, on loseplx. creek'. ' 

Mr. and Mrs. . SL J. Hahermaii- ant 
son Freddie, Marjo)1e Cola, Kenny and 
filends pxenf elosd on Cottoawoad eraek 
Sunday, •' . . \ • ■*" ' : : 

yooe Ed^Lnoid, Jot- H<y and Salph 
Tippefet- made a. oneioess trip- to- Sh- 
ter prise Monday, • •.'■ . ■ . 

'Former- school. mates of Mrs. .Us titer 
Day Yf sited at ' the Bay homo . a few 
days last week, ... 

Roy S'W'&iisoxn who has been, employ- 
ed ax lbs Tloceti ranrdx, returned Sat- 
urday to his honio in ClarketoB, 

Joe Ebsen took bis. small ils-uglitfei*, 
Paolii. to the ihoinitaiiis wit&lilni wlion 
■bev wool Ihe torse oC rho weelo - 



54 



The First Grande Ronde River Bridge 
In January 1947, Asotin County Commissioners purchased an army-surplus Bailey 
bridge. It was 200 feet long and made of steel. After the bridge was installed a short 
distance above the ferry landing at the Zindel Place, local ranchers were pleased. They 
could now drive to Asotin without relying on the ferry. 

The new bridge was a great convenience to local ranchers. Unfortunately, an ice jam 
on February 18, 1949 severely damaged the bridge and moved it about 500 feet 
downstream. Because the ferry was gone, there was no way for people and cars to cross 
the Grande Ronde for a time. 

The Basket 

To at least allow people to cross the river, a small wooden basket was attached to the 
old ferry cable. People would board the basket. Gravity would take the basket to about 
the center of the river. With the use of a rope, people in the basket could pull it the rest 
of the way to the other side of the river. 

The arrangement was unsatisfactory. There was no way for automobiles to cross the 
river. Also, because the basket was small, there was no satisfactory way to transport 
bulky cargos across the river. The Tippett family, for instance, had to move large 
quantities of hay across the river. As small as the basket was, moving large amounts of 
hay was a big and time-consuming job. 

Subsequent Bridges 
In 195 L another bridge, actually a reconstruction of the initial bridge, was put into 
place at the original bridge site. Some time after the ice jam had occurred, the remnants 
of the bridge were removed from the river. (Dick Rivers had the contract to remove the 
bridge.) The Asotin County Commissioners decided to reconstruct the old bridge to 
make the new one. Some of the girders were too badly twisted to be used. Consequently, 
there was only one row of girders and braces along the sides of the bridge. In the initial 
bridge, there had been two rows. (Compare the reconstructed bridge in Picture 4.10 with 
the initial bridge in Pictures 4.6 and 4.7.) 



55 



LEWISTON TRIBUNE, FEBRUARY 1% 1949 




I I The twisting fennel Hondle .r!v* 
'jet* spat',, i 114 ontle lee jam into 

j the ' Snake river--' at Hogarsberp, ; 

j yesterday, and residents who dwell I 
; I eo the banks •■of'Vthe smaller | 

| stream .were thankful- '-'.last', night I 
j that the grinding white meun-1 

| tain hat passed thern by* . | 

I It carried, away a 20D-foot f 
1 1 .bridge at Regersbefg,,- propelled! 
]| a cabin with two women 'in it! 

II 500 yards* destroyed a ranch cook ! 
j rto'jstf and sent watar ccu**si~# 

. | through the streets of -Troy, 0re*f 
| The jam, 10 feet high and- 150 | 
. feet %yide, formed at Troy late I 
j ThiUTday evening. As it grew m : 
| slze^ water was squeezed f rem | 



i or 



j ro ^ Water at Troy 



re- 1 



O fa>.a 



Weeding last night Xhwas 2 ieetj 
| deep m the streets, yesterday I 
j morning, • ,. ? | 

| The jam came* to- rest -at- fhSO j 
J a,m. at Captain John, 23 miles! 
j sooth el Lewiston, and one xnile-f 
! south of where Rivermai*'. Kyle ]. 



MeGracly is stranded, in,, his pac- 
ket* the Florence. Tt fetr etches 
south .to- Billy creek, ^oirh Troy 
to Captain John by water Is ap- 
proximately 34 miles. ' 
• Peek Stops Jain 
The ice pack .at Buffalo, eddy, 
where McGrady ; is stranded, 
stopped the roaring mass of lee 
dead in its tracks at. 9:30 yester- 
day morning. The Florence 
"jumped about 5 'feet*' when thej 
collision qeeured, according to | 
Billy DeYanlt,. Lewiston; a" Me- 1 
Grady . crewman* The ..Florence, | 
now resting- on top of tne ice | 
pack, her propellers ; oat of the t 
water, was"" still . stationary last 1 
night - , ■ | 

McGrady eEsured his wife at j 
Ctarkston . via carrier pigeon j 
yesterday' that he ..feels mr& the I 
jam will not erusti the Ffcsr- j 
fence. The road to Buffalo eddy .[' 
is washed out IS miles south of \\ 
Of arkstcm* Travelers- whe van- j 
tared further yesterday werrt on j 
foot, : ■ | 



| U A great majority of the lee is j 
(being socked under the. quarter-" 
| mile pack -sooth of the Florence/* 
| one observer said last night "It 
: is not more than 5 feet high on 

- the south side, and big chunks 

- are contimially breaking off and 

; being drawn under the pack to i : 
j pop np^on the- otliey side/ r: | j 
j Harry Clark, Ciarksron, 'Asotin | ; 
| county commissioner, who walked j \ 
\ from the washout to 'Buffalo 1 1 
I eddy yesterday ' estimated last 1 1 
night that Mcfeady has a 50-50*" 
■ chance of escaping the ice today, j j 
I He has been trapped sloee Dec, j 



Clark' predicted a-. pontinue&S 
j rain will 'further sap the strength | 
| of the 100 feet of ice on the north \ 
\ side of the Florence* Once the.j 
I slush Is dissipated, the packet can j 
I settle Into the water and. return ) 
| to its berth at Lewiston* | 

[ Speed Is Slew . " ! 

I Hoy Fioch, Anatone, o^tlmaiec! j 
j The speed of the ponderous rnomr | 
j rain at two miles eh hour in tlie j 
Grrxr Rccidr y^srr^aay. , v-rn:li 
} move slightly faster in the Snake* I 
! WHen -Ii,,cania to resist Cafn-. | 
j tain John? th®. jam. showed evh j 
j dance of the" havpe v ji had J 
j wrecked. Logs, brush. arid parts j 
| of the ftegaraherg bridge ; were I 
j prolnjcllog from- the " jagged' | 
I ehynks of foe* - Occasionally s, j 
| slight movement. would pitch a- I 
j I eg o r t i ni be r I o te th eel t% 1 i } 
| would 'fall back ~ between the I 
| massive. white jaws to fee brok* f 
I en Hlce a match stick, j; 

1 Fioeh gave credit for flashing 
j the word' of the ' traveling jam 
j to Russell Boggan*-'- rancher. Bog- 
I gan» who lives four miles west -of 
! where the Chief Joseph "trail 
i bridge across tM -stream . IS 
I miles sooth of Anatone, called his 
) neighbors, Wayland Besma, W. 
\^\ Fleser and his brother Carol 
| Boggan, Ba.neliers t a far-away 
l roar ringing in their ears,, drove 
\ stock from tlie hanks, Bezona, 
] standing in 4 feet of water /cours- 
1 ing throngh Ms home,-- called 
Floeh at 7 a.m, • | 

After leaving the Chief Josenh ! 
Trail bridge, the "jam traveled an- i 
other 10 nhles to .Rogersberg* All | 
dareage done in this area, is not j 
hnowo. It is relatively isolated. 1 
Floeh said, Joe Ehsen ? Asotin", ! 
whose ranch Is 4 miles west of* 
Rogersberg, said his cookhouse 
was destroyed* Ebsen and Rlcli- 
Rrd Kivers. A^othn asserted thee 
: Rogersberg bridge was carried 
awav. 



56 



This reconstructed bridge was in use until it was replaced in 1983. In that year, the 
current bridge, a two-lane concrete and steel structure, was built. Because it is a very 
wide bridge, even two large trucks could pass each other on it. 

Other Problems 
With the extension of the road to the mouth of the Grande Ronde and operation of the 
ferry, people living on lower Joseph Creek were able to drive to town. To be sure, there 
were problems associated with the operation of the ferry and later the initial bridge across 
the Grande Ronde was taken out by an ice jam. 

There were at least two other problems. For one, the Snake River rose in the spring, 
often flooding low spots in the road and preventing travel on the road. For another, water 
spouts down Fisher Gulch sometimes washed out the road or covered it with rocks and. 
mud. 



57 




Picture 4.1 

The Ferry at Rogersburg 

The ferry is on the north side of the Grande Ronde. The road to the ferry dock on the 
south side is clearly visible along with several buildings. On the ferry, Pete Edgmand is 
standing next to his sister Hazel who was married to Joe Camilo. Hazel and Joe lived in 
San Diego. They had three children: Maurice, Joann, and Barbara. Maurice and Joann 
(the older sister) appear in the picture. The two women standing on the left are some of 
Hazel's friends. Harv Parsley is standing on the right He was operating the ferry at the 
time. 

The person charged with running the ferry lived in a cabin on the south side of the 
river. At night, he sometimes had difficulty hearing anyone on the other side of the river 
calling for the ferry. On at least two occasions, someone had to swim the river to get his 
attention. Barbara Tippett, the younger daughter of Jidge and Jessie Tippett, swam the 
river. On another occasion, Frank Rogers swam the river. Perhaps others did as well 



58 








Picture 4.2 



The Ferry at Rogersburg: 1 940 



The ferry is on the south side of the Grande Ronde. The road to the ferry dock on the 
north side is clearly visible. The ferry was capable of carrying two automobiles at one 
time. Pete, Birdie, and Mike Edgmand are standing on the right. The person operating 

the ferry is in front on the left. The person in back is Verl Huffman. Surprisingly, his 
automobile was a car, not a pickup. 



59 




Picture 43 

Walter Bly and the Ferry: 1944 

Walter Bly, standing on the left, ran the ferry at Rogersburg for a time and then ran it 
after it was moved to the Zindel Place. In back, we see Merle Bly, his wife Wilma, 
Walter's wife Gladys, and Oscar "Tike" Bly. In front, we see Sylvia Day, Janice Clayton 
(Wilma' s daughter by a previous marriage), and Margaret Day. 

Walter was one of the last persons to operate the ferry on the lower Grande Ronde 
River. Frank Ledford, however, was probably the last. Others included Roy McCoy, 
Harv Parsley, Fred Sanders, and Ron McCauley. 



60 

















Picture 4.4 

Fording the Grande Ronde During High Water: 1930 

Here, cowhands are driving cattle across the Grande Ronde River at the Zindel Place. 
Notice how high the river is. Pete Edgmand is horseback on the bank. The other riders 
are Unknown, Ralph Tippett, Joe Bly and Unknown. Before the cattle and riders finish 
crossing the river, both the cattle and horses will be swimming. When people learned 
that cowhands were going to move cattle across the river during high water, they would 
often go to the Zindel Place to watch them cross. 

On another occasion, Joe and Pete were crossing the Grande Ronde with seven or 
eight bulls. Both the bulls and horses were swimming nicely. Suddenly, one of the bulls 
died and turned up on its side. The bull then floated downstream, landing on the island 
below the ferry site. 

The bull had no history of health problems. Joe and Pete believed that he died of a 
heart attack. 



61 



■■■ 



■111 

^ -I 
"r; 



\ 



v_.. V- 



* >- 



■■HI 








Picture 4.5 

Another Way to Cross the Grande Ronde River: 1 937 

In 1937, the Grande Ronde froze hard enough for people and animals to cross on the ice. 
In this picture, several members of the Tippett family are crossing the Grande Ronde near 
Cactus Flats with pack mules. 



62 




Picture 4.6 



The Ferry at the Zindel Place 



Initially, the ferry was at Rogersburg. Then, it was moved several miles upstream to the 
Zindel Place. In the picture, the ferry is on the south side of the Grande Ronde. Walter 
Bly ran the ferry at the Zindel Place most of the time. He and his wife Gladys lived in 
the house on the right. 



63 




Picture 4.7 



The First Grande Ronde River Bridge 



The first bridge across the lower Grande Ronde was a single-lane steel bridge. 
Unfortunately, an ice jam in February 1949 severely damaged the bridge and moved it 
about 500 feet down the river. Because the ferry was not available initially, people were 
forced to cross the river using a basket hung from the old ferry cable. 



64 



•'•*• *■**•'••■ " - : " : ''"'- •%; 




Picture 4.8 

The First Grande Ronde Bridge Had Only One Lane 

Jack and Blanche Tippett's car is parked on the bridge. Obviously, the bridge was so 
narrow that cars could not pass on it. 



65 



^^^^(Ulli^^^^^^^^^^^Wi 




Picture 4.9 

The Grande Ronde River Bridge after the Ice Jam 

In February 1949, an ice jam carried the first Grande Ronde River Bridge about 500 feet 
downstream from its approaches. 

Dick Rivers received the contract to move the bridge out of the river. 



66 








iPllllllllllll 



■■■I 



■■i 



if . ,*.*! 



Picture 4.10 

Joe Bly Crossing the Grande Ronde in the Basket 

Please note how high the river is. Joe and Pete were fortunate in that they had a pickup 
on one side of the river and a car on the other. Of course, they still had to use the basket. 
In addition to groceries and other items, they used the basket to carry cottonseed cake. 

When people first started using the basket, it was impossible to retrieve the basket if it 
was on the opposite side of the river. In order to get the basket, several people crossed 
the river by going hand-over-hand on the cable. Jack and Wayne Tippett retrieved the 
basket in this manner. Eventually, it became possible to retrieve the basket by using the 
rope even if it was on the other side of the river. 



67 




Moving Hay Across the Grande Ronde in the Basket 

Here, various members of the Tippett Family are preparing to move hay across the 
Grande Ronde. Because the basket was so small, many trips were required to move a 
significant amount of hay. 



68 







!rf:^^^.-?^;,^-":- 






Picture 4.12 



The Second Grande Ronde Bridge 



Because the approaches were not damaged when the ice jam took out the first bridge, 
they were used for the second bridge. The second bridge, completed in 1951 , was 
actually a reconstruction of the first bridge. Consequently, it had only a single lane. The 
bridge was replaced in 1983. 



69 













g^^s** 



i£#*i'*.i^| 



; N ,f^%^»>: 



itwiiillfcfislfe^ *'ii-^a 



fetjil 



■^ff?J% 













[fe: 



... V-fefcJ 






Picture 4.13 



The CuiTent Grande Ronde Bridge 1 



In 1983, workers built a concrete and steel bridge across the Grande Ronde River at the 
previous bridge site. 



70 







Picture 4.14 



The Current Grande Ronde Bridge 2 



In contrast to the earlier bridges across the Grande Ronde, this bridge is veiy wide. Joe 
River's Toyota 4Runner is parked on the side of the bridge. Even so, there is more than 
enough room for another car to pass. 



71 




Picture 4. 15 

A Low Spot in the Snake River Road 

A low spot in the road occurred just below the mouth of Couse Creek. When Snake 
River was high, it sometimes covered the road here as well as elsewhere. If the road was 
impassible downstream, it might still be possible to drive home. If the road was still 
passable upstream, people could drive from Asotin to Anatone and then down Couse 
Creek to the Snake River and home. 

If the road above the mouth of Couse Creek was impassable, the only other way to 
possibly drive home was to drive to Enterprise and go home by way of Cold Springs. 
Because the Snake flooded in May and June, the Cold Springs road was sometimes 
closed because of snow or mud. 

When the road up Snake River was paved, workers in effect raised the road here. 
Even so ? it still floods on rare occasions. 



72 




Picture 4.16 



Another Low Spot in the Snake River Road 



This low spot in the road was just across from Billy Creek; If the river covered this spot 
in depth, the only way to possibly drive home was via Enterprise and Cold Springs. 







Picture 4.17 



Eliminating the Low Spot 



Fairly recently, the road from Captain John, to just below the Spangler Place was rebuilt 
according to federal specifications. In addition to widening and paving the road, 
guardrails were added. Also, the road was raised so as to eliminate the low spot across 
from Billy Creek. 



74 



Ilili|it% 






l^plftil^ 



^% 











Picture 4.18 

Looking Up Fisher Gulch 

Sometimes water spouts would come down Fisher Gulch and either wash out the road or 
cover it with rocks and mud. News of the water spout and damage to the road had to be 
reported to the Asotin County Commissioners. County workers would then bring 
equipment to repair the road. Normally, it would take several days before the road was 
repaired. 

Today, the road goes over a very large culvert. Consequently, it would take a very 
large water spout to damage the road. 



75 



CHAPTER 5 
ROGERSBURG TO THE OREGON STATE LINE 

When the feny was at Rogersburg, people with automobiles heading for lower Joseph 
Creek or beyond would cross the Grande Ronde there and then drive south towards 
Joseph Creek. The road from Rogersburg to the Zindel Place was narrow and rough. 
When the feny was moved to the Zindel Place, people heading for Joseph Creek no 
longer used the Rogersburg portion of the road. 

In 1951, workers opened a second bridge across the Grande Ronde River at the Zindel 
Place. This bridge was made mostly from parts of the first bridge. Unlike the first bridge 
which was taken out by an ice jam, this bridge remained in place until 1 983 when it was 
replaced by a two-lane concrete and steel bridge. 

In the following years, the road, from the bridge to the Washington-Oregon state line 
was gradually improved. Except for the construction of two new bridges on Joseph 
Creek, there were few dramatic changes. Mostly, it was a gradual straightening, 
widening, and smoothing of the road. 

In the 1980s, two major changes occurred when workers installed two new concrete 
and steel bridges across lower Joseph. Creek. These new bridges had two lanes. More 
importantly, they were at new and better locations. For many years, there was a one-lane 
bridge across Joseph Creek just west of the Joseph Creek Schoolhouse. The new bridge 
was built a short distance upstream, eliminating the sharp turn onto the old bridge when 
traveling north on the road. (For pictures and discussions, see Pictures 5.8-5.1 L) 

In addition to the replacement of the Schoolhouse Bridge, the Bly Bridge was also 
replaced by a two-lane concrete and steel bridge. (For pictures and discussions, see 
Pictures 5.18-5.23.) Moreover, the bridge was relocated to the mouth of Cottonwood 
Creek, shortening the road by about one-half mile. To eliminate the Cottonwood Creek 
Bridge, Cottonwood was rechanneled so that its mouth is now above the new bridge. 

Aside from the construction of the two new Joseph Creek bridges, most of the other 
changes were gradual We consider three changes: two early changes (1940s) and 
another that took place much later. 



76 



The first early change involved the road up Zindel Hill. Originally, the road was 
narrow and very steep (see Picture 53). Later, the road was built so that it went along the 
side of the hill (The new road appears in the background of Picture 4.6.) Consequently, 
the new road was not as steep as the original road. 

The second early change involved improving the road near the mouth of Joseph 
Creek. Because of a cliff near the mouth of the creek, the road along the Grande Ronde 
went up the side of the hill as it started up Joseph Creek. As the narrow road peaked and 
started down the other side, there was a blind corner. County workers widened the road 
and did much to eliminate the blind corner. 

Much later, workers changed the road just south of the Heimark Place. Initially, the 
road, going south from the Heimark Place dropped down a steep hill and then went along 
Joseph Creek for about a quarter of a mile. Because of the juxtaposition of the hillside 
and creek, the road was narrow and little could be done to widen it. As a consequence, 
the road was moved higher on the hill, giving road workers more options. 

Over about a sixty year span, the road from the Grande Ronde Bridge to state line was 
gradually improved. Indeed, that portion of the road is in good shape and is frequently 
graded. Recently, county workers used a Brash Hog to trim trees and bushes along the 
road from the mouth of Cottonwood to the state line. In addition, the road was graded 
with a view to widening the road. That portion of the road is in great shape. 

While the portion of the road from the Grande Ronde Bridge to the state line has been 
gradually improved, the changes in the road from Asotin to the mouth of the Grande 
Ronde have been more dramatic. The road is now paved from Asotin to the Spangler 
Place, a distance of about 20 miles. When the various portions of the road were paved, 
workers also straightened and widened the road. Finally, workers took steps to reduce 
flooding of the road along the Snake River. Sometimes independently and sometimes as 
part of the paving process, county workers built up the portions of the road that flooded 
in the past,, making it much less likely they will flood in the future. 

As of February 2012, the county plans to pave the road to the mouth of the Grande 
Ronde. It is not clear, however, when money will be available to complete the project. 



77 




















Picture 5.1 
The Road Across Rogersburg Flat 
Looking down the Grande Ronde, we see the road across the flat to Rogersburg. 



78 




r W ; \ S-S: f ;' 







Picture 5.2 

The Road Along the Cliff between Rogersburg and Cactus Flats 

As is obvious, this portion of the road was terrible. At the time it was built, however, 
local ranchers did not have bulldozers or any other mechanized equipment. Over time, 
this portion of the road has been greatly improved. 



79 



3W 



^^^ 




Picture 5.3 

The Road Up Zindel Hill 

The road on the right is the original road up Zindel Hill It was narrow and steep. One 
rainy night, my dad asked my mother and me to walk up the hill rather than riding up in 
the pickup. We did. My dad reasoned that if the pickup went over the side of the road, 
he would be able to open his door and jump safely. If my mother and I opened the 
passenger door and jumped, the pickup might roll over us. 

The road below the original road goes from the bridge down the Grande Ronde to 
Rogersburg. 



80 










Picture 5.4 

The Road from the Top of Zindel Hill to the Mouth of Joseph Creek: 201 1 

This picture was taken from the top of Zindel Hill looking up the Grande Ronde to the 
mouth of Joseph Creek. This portion of the road has been greatly improved over the 

years. 




Figure 5.5 
Chief Joseph's Cave- 
Chief Joseph's Cave is on Joseph Creek, less than one-half mile south of the Haberman 
ranch house. The cave is on the west side of the creek; the road is on the east side. Years 
ago, there were just a few trees and bushes along the creek. Today, there are many more 
trees and bushes. Consequently, the cave's entrance is no longer visible from the road 
even during the winter. According to the Nez Perce's Cultural Officer, most members of 
the tribe believe that Chief Joseph was born in that cave. 

The roof of the cave is high enough that a person can ride his or her horse into the 
cave and still have head room. It is about 30 feet from the front of the cave to the rear. 
The cave is on private land which is posted. 

According to the Homer Papers (pp. 884-885), A. B. Findley, his wife, and two 
children spent the winter of 1878-79 living in Chief Joseph's Cave. (In the fall of 1878, 
their cabin in the Wallowa Valley burned.) Following their stay there, the cave was 
called Findley's Cave. Later, it was called Joseph's Cave or Chief Joseph's Cave. 
Incidentally, the A. B. Findley family was the first white family to settle in Wallowa 
County (1872). 



82 




s . .^ . 



„>„ ^«- 



Figure 5*6 

The Joseph Creek Schoolhouse: June 201 1 

The road up Joseph Creek runs by the Joseph Creek School The schoolhouse, a Joseph 
Creek landmark, is in poor shape. Blackberry bushes had been growing up around the 
building. Members of a local club cleared the bushes. Because the front porch was 
rotten, they removed it. Also, they removed the woodshed and apartment that had been 
added to the original building. 




Figure 5.7 

Returning Home After Attending a Dance at the Joseph Creek Schoolhouse 

A dance was occasionally held at the Joseph Creek Schoolhouse. The people in this 
picture had gone to the dance and then spent the night (or what was left of it) at the Bly 
and Edgmand home place. From the left, we see Eraiel Pike, Anatha Bly, Beverly Victor, 
Leo Beard, Lester Keisecker (with the musical instrument), and Marcel Norton. Anatha 
lived at the home place and Leo was working at the ranch at the time (late 1 930s). Eraiel, 
Beverly, Lester, and Marcel were stalling home. (They lived at Paradise which is near 
Flora, Oregon.) Anatha and Leo had decided to ride with them for a mile or two before 
returning home. 



84 




Picture 5.8 



The Schoolhouse Bridge: 1920 

The bridge by the Joseph Creek Schoolhouse was originally wood with log stringers 
supporting the planks. People enjoyed swimming under the bridge because the water 
there was relatively deep. Also, it was conveniently close to the schoolhouse. 

The two young men on the left are probably Joe Bly and Frank Rogers. The others are 
unidentified. 



v^-^^> ^xo 




Picture 5.9 

The Approach to the Schoolhouse Bridge: 1920 

The road from the south to the Schoolhouse Bridge was narrow and ran along a cliff. 
Consequently, a car approaching from the south had to make a sharp right turn, onto the 
bridge. 

Near the water, we see Addie Case Bly, Gladie Parsley, Mary Rogers, Unknown, 
Unknown, and Esther Bly Day. The young woman above the others is unidentified; the 
young man in the road may be Skeeter Tippett 



86 














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Picture 5.10 



The Site of the Old Schoolhouse Bridge 



With the removal of the old Schoolhouse Bridge, there is little to indicate that it had ever 
existed. 




Picture 5.11 



The New Schoolhouse Bridge 



The new bridge near the Joseph Creek Schoolhouse was a major improvement. Built in 
1983, it is wide enough so that oncoming cars can pass. Also, it allows drivers to pass 
the schoolhouse, continue straight up the road, and cross the bridge at a high rate of 
speed. 



88 











Picture 5.12 

Traveling Home after Picking Up Mail and Supplies at Rogersburg: 1920 

This picture was taken just below the bench at the Bly and Edgmand home place. The 
people in the picture are Chris "Doc" Tippett, Guy Rogers, Birdie and Pete Edgmand, 
Addie Case Bly, Guy's wife Amy, and Mary Rogers. At the time this picture was taken, 
Doc and his first wife, Gertrude Ohms Tippett, had a homestead up Trail Creek. Guy and 

Amy also had a homestead up Trail Creek. 



89 




Picture 5.13 



A County Road Replaced the Wagon Road 



For many years, a wagon road ran past the Bly and Edgmand home place. Eventually, it 
was replaced by a county road. This road was gradually improved. 



90 




^V4< 



Picture 5.14 



Anafha Bly and the Hack 



As Joseph and Alma Bly aged, they traveled In the hack (buggy) shown here. After 
Joseph and Alma died, the hack sat by the hayshed at the Bly and Edgmand home place. 



91 




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.» 



Picture 5.15 

Pete and Birdie Edgmand Preparing to Travel by Wagon to the Horse Creek Ranch 

After traveling to the Horse Creek Ranch by wagon, Pete and Birdie stayed in the two- 
story house there during calving. 

During this period, ranchers took supplies to Cold Springs by wagon. Also, they 
traveled to the pole patch with a wagon. The trip to the pole patch and back took two 
days. 



92 




■ 



Picture 5.16 



Pete and Joe's First Pickup 

Pete and Joe's first pickup, purchased in 1938, was used and greatly underpowered. 

When traveling up Road Gulch, they would take a team of horses. When the road got 
steep. Joe would hitch the team to the front of the pickup, then sit on the hood while 
using the team to pull the pickup up the road. After getting the pickup up the steepest 
part of the road, Joe took the team back home. 

Joe and one of his friends are sitting in the back of the pickup. 



93 




Picture 5.17 

One of Pete and Joe's Last Pickups 

Like other pickups on Joseph Creek in the 1950s, Pete and Joe's pickups had stock racks. 
Typically, ranchers carried both a shovel and axe in their pickups. The last pickup Pete 
and Joe owned had a dogcatcher mounted over the cab. 

Pete is standing on the right. His dog Gemil is standing by the pickup. Whenever 
Pete drove away from the home place, Gemil wanted to go. Once, he followed the 
pickup from the home place to several miles south of Cold Springs. The pads on his feet 
were raw. Gemil was a reasonably good dog, but preferred to chase deer to heading off 
cattle. 



94 










liiilir-' ,|£/\^iS5 







Picture 5.18 



The Road to the Bly Bridge 



From the Bly and Edgmand much house, the road continued up Joseph Creek for about a 
quarter of a mile to the Bly Bridge. (It was called the Bly Bridge because of its proximity 
to the Bly home.) After the bridge, the road went down Joseph Creek for another quarter 
of a. mile until it reached the bridge across Cottonwood Creek (hidden by trees). After 
the bridge, the road continued up Cottonwood. 



95 




Picture 5.19 



The First Bly Bridge 



The first Bly Bridge was a footbridge. Birdie Bly and others are ice skating below the 
bridge. 



96 



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Picture 5.20 
An Early Bly Bridge 
Horses are crossing an early Bly Bridge. Joseph Creek was high at the time. 



97 




Picture 5.21 

Local Ranchers Working on the Bly Bridge 

Pete Edgmand is on the ladder. Guy Rogers (with hat) is standing in the middle of the 
bridge. Birdie Edgmand appears in the background. Frank Rogers and Joe Bly are on the 
right. 

Before the road to Captain John was extended to the month of the Grande Ronde, it 
was local ranchers who built and maintained die local roads and bridges. Jidge Tippett, 
Pete Edgmand, Joe Bly, Stewart Day, Clarence Spangler, and other ranchers helped build 
the road from Captain John to the mouth of the Grande Ronde. Even so ? they never 
received, any credit for their efforts in the books that I have read. 



98 




Picture 5.22 
A Steel Bridge over Joseph Creek 
Eventually, a steel bridge replaced the wooden bridge. 



99 



















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Picture 5.23 

The New Bly Bridge 

In 1983 or shortly thereafter, a new bridge was built across Joseph Creek near the mouth 
of Cottonwood. Similar to the new Schoolhouse Bridge, it is wide enough for oncoming 

cars to pass. Also, the road was straightened, allowing cars to cross over Joseph Creek at 
a relatively high rate of speed. Moreover, the new bridge shortened the drive up 

Cottonwood by about half a mile. Finally, by rechanneling Cottonwood Creek so that its 
mouth is now above the Joseph Creek Bridge, the Cottonwood Creek Bridge was 
eliminated. 



100 



CHAPTER 6 
THE WASHINGTON STATE LINE TO ENTERPRISE 
The Wagon Road Up Road Gulch 
When the Bradley, Green, and Bly families moved to Joseph Creek, there were no roads 
to that area. The closest town was Anatone and there was a trail to it Because the trail 
was narrow and steep, wagons could not travel it. 

By 1915, probably earlier, a wagon road was built up Road Gulch to Cold Springs 
Ridge. Local ranchers banded together to build it. The road was completed without the 
aid of bulldozers or other modem equipment. Local ranchers used axes and crosscut 
saws to clear the roadway and then picks and shovels to build the road. The ranchers did 
have access to some horse-drawn equipment. They used fresnos to move dirt and A- 
frame graders to smooth the road. 

The early road from Joseph Creek was narrow, rough, and, up Road Gulch, very steep. 
Also, early travelers were forced to ford Joseph, Cottonwood, and Horse Creeks, the 
latter five times. Because the road up Road Guich was very steep, people riding horses or 
driving teams of horses up the grade had to stop frequently to rest their horses. 

Pulling a wagon down the road was not easy either. Wagon brakes were inadequate to 
the task. Braking involved pulling a lever that forced a block of wood against the metal 
rim of one of the wagon's wheels. The brake, sufficient for a gentle slope or perhaps 
even a short, steep grade, but not for the long, steep grade down Road Gulch. 

Going down it put undue pressure on a team of horses. One solution was to chain a 
log to the rear of the wagon so that it would drag along behind the wagon. The log, 
dragging on the road, would slow the wagon. Another solution was to chain-lock one of 
the wheels. This solution involved chaining one of the wheels so that it would not turn. 
Under the circumstances, the wheel simply slid along the ground, slowing the wagon. 

In addition to building the road, the ranchers maintained it. 

Fixing the Road to Accommodate Automobiles 
In 1936 and 1937, Forest Service workers began working on the Road Gulch road so that 
people could drive automobiles on it. They, however, improved the road only as far as 



101 



the Forest Service line, a mile or two below the head of Road Gulch. Even so, they 
improved that part of the road enough so that cars could travel over it. 

From the Forest Service line, it was another eight miles or so to the Bly and Edgmand 
home place. Although that part of the road was poor, people could drive automobiles 
over it. Over time, local ranchers made some improvements on the road. Jack Tippett, 
for instance, spent four days using his bulldozer to improve the road. 

Despite the various improvements, the road was poor by most standards. The road 
was narrow and rough. People still had to ford Horse Creek five times before starting up 
Road Gulch. The road up Road Gulch was steep. In the winter, it was impassable 
because of the snow. In the spring, the road was sometimes slick. In the summer, cars 
going up the grade often overheated. Sometimes, drivers had to stop to cool their 
engines. At other times, they had to add water to their radiators. Some drivers added 
water from springs and water troughs along the road. Others carried water in their 
vehicles. 

With the improvements in the road, the Forest Service or, sometimes, the County 
graded the road to the Forest Service line or just below because grader operators could 
not turn their graders around at the line. 

Even though the road was impassible for part of the year and was narrow, rough, and 
steep in places, it was very helpful to local ranchers. They could now drive to their cow 
camps and on to Enterprise, Joseph, and other towns. Also, some of the ranchers owned 
pasture land at the Buttes and other places. They could now drive to those pastures. 

For a time, the only way drive to lower Joseph Creek was the newly opened road 
down Road Gulch. As the clippings from the Wallowa County Chieftain on the 
following page show, the road down Road Gulch was opened in October 1937, The road 
along the Snake River south from Captain John to the mouth of the Grande Ronde River 
was opened in the spring of 1 938, As discussed earlier, a celebration was held at 
Rogersburg on May 15, 1938. Some of the participants traveled north from Enterprise 
down Road Gulch. Others traveled south along the Snake River from Asotin. Those 
arriving from. Asotin crossed the Grande Ronde in motorboats. Ferry service did not 
open until August 28, 1938. 



102 



Wallowa County Chieftain 












Two roads have isceafty been 

extended part way into the great 
oanyoiis/whieh oon^„togatlier 
at &e northeast comer of the 
coojity. Oaeioad'isaiieggjtensioE 

of the national forest: road past 
Cold Springs on the breaks of 

Snake River 



To celebrate tie opmmg of a 
road on lower Joseph Creek, aad 
Eoga^vffia* a free dao^e will be 
given in fee school house Safer- 
day night, ... The road to 
EogarsYiila seems almost lifce a 
miracle, Jflce one of those impos- 
sible things which really hap- 
tsenecl 



is opeafed 1 Judge Tappett drove 
outtb proveat- He asfeffiesds-to 
remember- -the; road eeleteatioii 
>t RogQishmg 'Sati^Say, -and to 
^-come eariy^ahd stay late. 



103 



The New Road to Lower Joseph Creek 
In the mid-1950s, B. W. James Inc. built a new road from Cold Springs Ridge down 
Horse Creek and then up Cottonwood Creek. James was the principal logging contractor 
for the Mt Emily Lumber Company. After the road was built, tracks hauled logs over it 
to the Mt. Emily sawmills in Enterprise and Joseph. 

The new road started at the Cutout Grounds and went down Grasshopper Ridge to a 
point near the old Pack Shed. It then went down the side of the ridge to Horse Creek. 
Next, the road followed Horse Creek all of the way to its mouth. Finally, the road went 
up Cottonwood Creek until it reached the Forest Service line. 

Following the completion of the road, many logs were hauled over it In a few years, 
the logging was completed. Even so, travelers to this day benefit from the new road. 
First, the road, designed to accommodate large logging tracks and their heavy loads, was 
well built. Second, the road was steep in places, but not as steep as the road up Road 
Gulch. Third, cars no longer had to ford Horse Creek. Previously, cars had to ford the 
creek five times before starting up Road Gulch. After the road was constructed down 
Horse Creek, it crossed Horse Creek only twice. At those crossings, B. W. James 
installed large culverts so that cars could cross over on them. Up Cottonwood, James 
built several sturdy bridges. 

Even before James built the new road, Biden Tippett had built a road from Cold 
Springs Ridge to his Jim Creek ranch. Completion of this road (about 1950) enabled him 
to drive to his ranch for the first time. Much later (1992), Biden sold the Jim Creek ranch 
to the Forest Service. 

Similarly, Bun PurcelL owner of the Cache Creek ranch, built a road from the road 
down Horse Creek to his ranch on the Snake River. About 1990, Purcell sold his Cache 
Creek ranch to the Forest Service. The Forest Service continues to use the roads to Jim 
Creek and Cache Creek. 

As mentioned earlier, Wallowa and Asotin Counties have an agreement about the 
Oregon portion of the road from the Washington state line to the Forest Sendee line just 
above the mouth of Road Gulch. Together, they have done a fine job maintaining that 
portion of the road. In fact, it is as good, today as it ever was, 

104 





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Initially and for many years, the Forest Service maintained the road from the old 
Cutout Grounds down Horse Creek to the Forest Service line. Currently, however, the 
Forest Service is not maintaining it. No work has been done on the road since the mid- 
1980s. There are many loose rocks on the road. Also, there are some imbedded rocks 
that are hazardous to cars with low ground clearances. Water has run down some parts of 
the road and eroded it, Wild roses have grown up along the sides of the road in some 
places, Consequently, when driving the road, people must be careful to avoid them 
scratching their cars. 

It is not clear why the Forest Service has stopped maintaining that portion of the road. 
After all, the Foreign Service and others continue to use it. The reason may simply be 
lack of money. Some people, however, suggest that the Forest Service wants to close the 
road to the public. According to their argument, the Forest Sendee is no longer 
maintaining the road in order to speed its closure. 

The Rest of the Road to Enterprise and Joseph 
By way of the Buttes, it is about 53 miles from the road to the Cold Springs Cow Camp 
to Enterprise. Most of that road is County road. The rest is on Forest Service land. 

Almost all of the County road is from Enterprise north to the Forest Service line 
several miles south of Thomason Meadows. This portion of the road was improved many 
times between the 1950s and 2012. Although only a part of it is paved, the rest of it is in 
excellent condition and is routinely maintained. 

Also, the Forest Service portion of the road has been improved several times, once 
almost to the Frog Pond. Also, the mud holes on Cold Springs and Grasshopper Ridges 
have been fixed. In the spring, those mud holes were a problem. Sometimes, drivers 
could go around them. Other times, they had to go through them. Occasionally, they 
would get stuck, forcing the drivers to put on chains. Alternatively, the drivers would 
jack up the rear of their cars and put fir boughs under their rear tires. Either way, it was a 
dirty and time consuming job. 



108 



The County portion of the road is in better shape than the Forest Service portion. 
There are several reasons for this. One is that the County portion of the road is closer to 
Enterprise and Joseph than the Forest Service portion, making it easier to maintain. 
Second, the County portion of the road is more heavily traveled. Third, the County may 
have more money to improve and maintain roads than the Forest Service. 

Overall, the road from the Washington State line to Enterprise is much better than it 
was In the 1950s. The road down Grasshopper Ridge to the Forest Service line on Horse 
Creek, however. Is in very poor shape. Drivers whose cars have low ground clearances 
should be discouraged from driving that portion of the road. 



109 




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Picture 6.1 

The Road at the Day Place 

At the Stewart and Esther Day home place, the road up Cottonwood Creek went around 
the bam and corrals. 

According to Jack Tippett, Stewart and Esther Day owned the first car on Joseph 
Creek. Stewart drove the car down Road Gulch before the Forest Service had completed 
the road in 1937. 

The first appearance of automobiles on Joseph Creek often disturbed livestock, 
especially horses. One time, Birdie and Anatha w r ere at the Horse Creek ranch house. 
Pete and Joe were putting in a crop at the Cliff Applington place, about a mile away and 
at a higher elevation. 

Jim Chaffee was driving his Model T Ford down the road. Skeeter, Birdie's horse, 
had never seen a car. Skeeter jumped the fence at the house and headed for the 
Applington place. Fortunately, Birdie was not riding Skeeter at the time. 

The horse went up the trail to the Applington place, Pete and Joe were concerned 
about Birdie because Skeeter was bridled and saddled. They got on their horses and 
started down the trail. As they went down the trail, they met Birdie w r ho had started 
walking up the trail, much to their relief. 



110 




Picture 6.2 

The Wagon Road Up Horse Creek 

This picture was taken looking down Horse Creek towards Ret Allen's home and 
Cottonwood Creek. At the time, the road was little more than a wide trail. 

Even after the road was improved, cars had to ford Horse Creek twice before reaching 
the Horse Creek Ranch and five times before starting up Road Gulch. 



Ill 







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Picture 6.3 

On the Road to Enterprise 

Joseph Bly did not raise cattle; he grew vegetables and fruit Because the growing season 
on Joseph Creek was significantly longer than that in the Wallowa Valley, he and his 
oldest son, Tony, used a wagon to haul vegetables and fruit to Enterprise, They gave up 
the venture relatively quickly. For one thing, it was a long and bumpy trip from lower 
Joseph Creek to Enterprise. For another, others could truck vegetables and fruit to 
Enterprise faster and cheaper. 

Tony, seated on the wagon, is handling the reins. For the steep pull up Road Gulch, 
he has a four horse team. 



112 










Picture 6.4 



The Horse Creek Road: 1990 



Looking up the Horse Creek road, we see Trail Creek on the right. 

The loggers who built the road from the Cutout Grounds down Horse Creek did a fine 
job. Also, Asotin County has an agreement with Wallowa County. Under the agreement, 
Asotin County workers grade the road from the Washington-Oregon state line to the 
Forest Service line whenever both counties agree to it. (Currently, the Forest Service line 
is just above the mouth of Road Gulch.) Wallowa County then reimburses Asotin 
County. 



113 




Picture 6.5 

The Mouth of Road Gulch: 1996 

Looking across Horse Creek, we see the start of the road up Road Gulch. Pete Edgmand 
and Birdie Bly each had a homestead up Road Gulch. Pete's homestead was next to the 
Forest Service line. Birdie's homestead was next to Pete's. 

Until the new road up Horse Creek was completed, travelers used the road up Road 
Gulch. This road was steep. In the spring, it was often slick. Also, cars sometimes 
overheated on their way to the top. If it was necessary to add water to the radiator, there 
was a water trough at Birdie's homestead, one at Pete's homestead, and one farther up 
Road Gulch. 

In 1996, there was virtually nothing left of Birdie's homestead cabin. Also, the water 
trough was gone. At Pete's homestead, the well by the road was still visible. There was 
a water trough. Instead of a hollowed log, however, it was a bath tab. At least it was full 
of water. 



114 






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Picture 6.6 



The Road Gulch Road: 1996 



Sometime after the new road up Horse Creek was completed, the Road Gulch road was 
closed. (Normally, there is a locked gate not far above the mouth of Road Gulch.) 
In the mid-1990s, it was opened to loggers. This is a picture of the road just up from 
Pete's house. Farther up the canyon, the road becomes much steeper. 



115 




'5, \; 



Picture 6.7 

Traveling Horse Creek in the Early 1920s 

Birdie Bly Edgmand, Dave Parsley, Addie Case Bly, and Pete Edgmand up Horse Creek. 



116 




Picture 6.8 

The New Horse Creek Road: 1993 

In 1955, loggers built a new road running from the Cutout Grounds down Grasshopper 
Ridge and then down Horse Creek. This picture was taken looking up the Horse Creek 
road to the point where it turns and goes up the side of the hill. The person who took the 
picture was standing in the road to Downy Saddle and Jim Creek. 

Many years ago, there was a spring box just below where the road now turns. People 
kept a tin cup there in order to drink from the spring. Later, a pond was built there. 



117 




Picture 6.9 



The New Horse Creek Road in Winter 



Because of snow, the upper portion of the Horse Creek Road is usually closed in the 
winter. 



118 






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Picture 6.10 



The 2007 Fire 



In 2007, a fire burned over 8,000 acres up Cottonwood, Horse Creek, Trail Creek, and 
Road Gulch. To assist in fighting the fire, the Trail Creek and Road Gulch roads were 
reopened. (When Leo Beard owned the old Bly and Edgmand Ranch, he built a road up 
Trail Creek.) In places, the roads were used as fire breaks. 

This picture was taken looking down at the head of Road Gulch. 



119 















llllii 

■BBT" 




Picture 6.11 

Cowhands Moving Cattle along the Cold Springs Ridge Road 

The road on. top of the Cold Spring ridge was reasonably good in the late 1940s and early 
1 950s. Except for hunting season, there was not much traffic on it. 

Here, cowhands are moving cattle along the road from the Cutout Grounds towards 
the Cold Springs corrals. 



120 




Picture 612 



The Cold Springs Corrals: October 2007 



Over the years, the corrals have been rebuilt several times. The shed attached to the 
corrals, however, has been there for over 60 years. 

In 1988, a forest fire destroyed the Cold Springs cabins, bam, and even the old salt 
shed on the top of the ridge. Only the corrals survived. 



121 




Picture 6,13 

The Cold Springs Cow Camp Sign: May 1993 

This is the sign at the start of the road down to the Cold Springs Cow Camp. Despite the 
1988 fire, the road is virtually the same as it was over 60 years ago. 



122 




Picture 6.14 



The Frog Pond: 1993 



Not far from the road down to Cold Springs, there is a pond. Years earlier, there was just 
a series of mud holes. Some very small frogs lived in those mud holes. The first time 
that Judy and I walked to the pond, we didn't find any frogs. We, however, heard them 



croaking. 



122 



4 j 




Picture 6.15 
The Road by the Frog Pond: 1993 
Over the years, this portion of the road was improved. 



124 




|. "■';.* ' * ''* U:^M] 



Picture 6.16 

Near Devil's Run: Early 1940s 

When driving cattle from Cold Springs to the Buttes, the cowhands did not follow the 
road the entire distance. (By road, it was about 35 miles.) South of the Huckleberry 
Patch, they left the road and followed the Devil's Run Cutoff, returning to the road at 
Thomason Meadows. (The first road from Thomason Meadows to Cold Springs 
followed the Devil's Run Cutoff.) This shortcut significantly reduced the distance that 
had to be traveled. Even so, the cattle drive took two days. 

Here, the hands are eating a noon meal on the way to Thomason Meadows and the 
Buttes. Ben Tippett, Biden Tippett, Pete Edgmand, Mike Edgmand, and Unknown are 
sitting. Blanche and Jack Tippett, Jidge Tippett, and Joe Bly are standing. 



125 



JA 




Picture 6.17 



Cattle Resting on the Devil's Run Cutoff 



While the hands are eating a noon meal, the cattle are resting. 

Ranchers ate three meals a day. They, however, were not breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 
They were breakfast, dinner, and supper. Large amounts of food were served at all three 
meals. 



126 




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Picture 6.18 

The Road by Jack and Stuke Tippetfs Home at the Buttes: 1993 

When traveling to Enterprise by way of Cold Springs, Pete and Birdie often stopped at 
Jack and Stuke Tippett's home initially at Thomason Meadows and later at the Buttes. 
(Jack was one of Jidge's brothers.) 

Jidge and Pete and Joe owned land at the Buttes. For years, Pete, Joe, and various 
members of the Tippett family joined forces to drive cattle that they were selling from the 
Buttes to Enterprise. The drive took two days. 

In the late 1940s or early 1950s, scales were installed at the corrals near Jack and 
Stuke' s home. Once the scales were installed, the cattle were weighed and then loaded 
on cattle tracks to be hauled to Enterprise or some other destination. Occasionally, cattle 
were still driven from the Buttes to Enterprise. 



127 



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